I now suspect that when moving to concealed carry, after which gun would be best, the question of concealment is next in importance, namely, which sytle and make of holster will do the job. Unfortunately, there is no recourse but to try out a number of them in order to decide.
Everyone is different: different shape, size and preferences. By preferences, mean the kind of wardrobe one is accustomed to wearing and where is it least objectionable to carry a holstered handgun.
In general, semiautomatics are the best to conceal, given they are much thinner than revolvers. Even a model 1911 .45 is often easer to conceal, and wear, than a large frame revolver. So, sticking with semiautos as the point of discussion, and with male shooters, there are only a few places to carry concealed that are effective in concealment and access. They are:
1. IWB - Inside Of Waistband.
This is probably the most used type of carry. The gun is carried in a holster of varying designs that fit between the wearer's waistband and body. This arrangement covers the holster and gun that extends below the upper belt line so less will show should the outer garment ride up momentarily.
The holster is held in place by various means - metal or plastic clips that attach to the belt on the outside (or sometimes, inside) of the belt. The inside attachments really rely on gripping, or clipping to, the waistband and the clip is mainly there to keep the holster from being pulled out of the waist on the draw.
Some holsters of this type also depend on leather loops attached to the holster and through which the belt is threaded. They are also made to be "tuckable" if desired, by attaching the clip, or loop, at the bottom of the holster so that it will hinge outwardly enough to tuck a shirt tail between the hook or loop and the holster body, covering the gun and holster from view. This, of course, makes access more difficult, but not excessively so. One can yank the shirt up with the non-shooting hand while grasping the gun with the other.
Among this type of 'tuckable' IWB holsters are the so-called hybrids. They are typically composed of a wide and rather tall piece of leather cut to offer some protection to the body from the gun that sticks up out of a synthetic, usually kydex, holster that is moulded to the gun's shape for retention. The broad leather backing goes next to your body and is secured to you by metal clips, fore and aft, that clip to your belt. For almost any handgun, these are very comfortable although they can be a small hassle to put on and are not amenable to being moved to a different position without taking the entire rig off and repositioning it and re-clipping it to your belt. Most have different mounting holes for the metal clips so that the holster can be adjusted for ride height, and for cant - up to a point. Also, most designs now are 'tuckable' since the clips are held to the leather backing at their bottom ends, enabling the user to tuck his shirt over the holster and gun and below the clips. The only down side to this is the fact that your belt will bulge out over the holstered gun and you will have to yank your shirt out of the way before you can get to it.
Another more recent innovation is the "clipless" holster, pioneered by Remora. It is a synthetic holster, slick on the inside for easy draw, but made of a high friction material on the exterior which grips the waistband and inner garment, like the shirt, tenatiously. These are surprisingly effective, lightweight and inexpensive.
2. OWB - Outside Of Waistband.
These types are what most people think of when they think about holsters. They are worn primarily on the belt outside the waistband secured by a loop, slots or metal clip. They are the most comfortable and the least concealable without a coat or other covering garment. They are often equipped with a security device like a thumb break snap or other locking device that makes it easy for the person carrying to release it but difficult for anyone else to draw the gun. For all day comfort I prefer the OWB style.
Some holster makers are designing OWB holsters to be more concealable. D. M. Bullard, working out of his shop in Azle, Texas has a new design called. BTB (Between The Belt) which is very compact and holds the gun snug to the body. This, and keeping the bottom of the holster close to the bottom of the belt will make a very concealable OWB holster for wearing under a light shirt or T-shirt. The biggest advantage I can see with this style is its rounded bottom, which, if exposed below a garment, does not look like a holster.
There is a new design called the "3-Speed" holster, made of softer materials and held about the waist with a soft, integral belt, secured with velcro. This is demonstrated to be worn at the 12 o'clock position and can be pulled down deep into one's pants so that the gun does not show at all. One would have to wear pants loose enough to get a hand under the belt and waistband deep enough to grab the pistol and yank it out. It can also be made to ride higher so that the grips are above the belt line, but still at the 12 o'clock position. I would think that this might be acceptable for a small gun, like a Ruger LCP, but something larger would require a big gun and holster to be stuck right down the middle of your pants behind your fly. I think this might prove to be uncomfortable both when sitting and when having to heed nature's call. But it might work for some. I will watch for reviews of this product.
3. Pocket
A good pocket holster, for either front or back pockets, is a fine way to carry a small gun like a Ruger LCP either as a primary carry or back up gun. There are many fine holster makers who cater to this type of carry, so there are many quality designs and holsters to choose from. Most effective designs incorporate some kind of panel that lies between the gun and the front, or outside, of the pocket, to prevent the gun's outline from "printing" through the pocket. The panels are attached in such a way that one's hand is easily inserted between the panel and the grips of the gun to draw it from the holster, which stays in the pocket.
Obviously, the larger the gun, the larger the pocket needs to be to conceal it. This is a matter of diminishing returns. Some guns are o.k. for pocket carry and most are not.
4. Ankle
It's what it says it is. A holster for your gun strapped to your ankle. Suitable for a back up gun, should you lean that way, but difficult to get to. Certainly, some situations would favor this style of carry, but not many. If you are down, for whatever reason, it might be easier to grab your gun from an ankle hoster than, say, an IWB carry. But, maybe not. I've never fancied having a gun strapped to my ankle, so I can't report on this style from any personal experience.
5. Shoulder
The classic "detective" rig. A gun slung under the weak-side armpit, secured by an arrangement of straps and buckles and concealed by a loose shirt or coat. I would consider that this is a good choice for someone who sits a lot during the day and may need quick access to his or her firearm. There are many different rigs running from $40 or so for the synthetic materials rig, to well over $100 for leather.
I hope this helps those new to concealed carry and who are dealing with holsters. No matter what you end up with, you can count on having probably three or more holsters per gun. The only way to know which suits you and your lifestyle and wardrobe is to try some out, and the used holster market isn't all that great. If you know someone who is a licensed conceal carry holder and has a few extra holsters (and who doesn't) you could ask to borrow a few to try out. Otherwise think carefully about how yo think concealed carry would work best for you, given the gun or guns you will be carrying, and get the best holster(s) you can. Buy one good holster be done, or buy three or four bad ones and spend more.
Discussing aspects and responsibilities of a citizen's right to carry a concealed handgun for self defense. Legal and ethical responsibilities and consequences. Safety and security. Review and analysis of various handguns, holsters, practices, techniques and training necessary to become proficient, safe and responsible.
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Monday, January 30, 2012
NRA and Politics
I am a member of the NRA, and plan to remain so. However, I am getting fed up with the continual barrage of emails and magazine content devoted to scare tactics and outright political distortions meant to make people vote for the candidates of their choice (regardless of the other issues on the table - not just Second Amendment rights), and to generate more money for their cause.
I want the NRA too get back to its roots as an association of gun owners and enthusiasts who support gun rights, safety, education and public awareness, not some "political action committee" dedicated to getting the candidates of the President and the board elected to office. For the NRA's information, there are many liberal minded citizens who support gun rights and the second amendment who do not also support right-wing conservative evangelical "the sky is falling" candidates or viewpoints. I am one of them and am tired of the NRA pushing the idea that since I am liberal in my political views, I must somehow be a gun hater and want to outlaw guns.
I will continue to be an NRA member in order to support their activities in support of our Second Amendment rights, education and safety, but will not give to their misguided and sometimes insulting political rants. In fact, NRA, reserve my annual membership money for activities directly related to gun rights legislation and educational programs, and don't give any of it to support political candidate activities.
I want the NRA too get back to its roots as an association of gun owners and enthusiasts who support gun rights, safety, education and public awareness, not some "political action committee" dedicated to getting the candidates of the President and the board elected to office. For the NRA's information, there are many liberal minded citizens who support gun rights and the second amendment who do not also support right-wing conservative evangelical "the sky is falling" candidates or viewpoints. I am one of them and am tired of the NRA pushing the idea that since I am liberal in my political views, I must somehow be a gun hater and want to outlaw guns.
I will continue to be an NRA member in order to support their activities in support of our Second Amendment rights, education and safety, but will not give to their misguided and sometimes insulting political rants. In fact, NRA, reserve my annual membership money for activities directly related to gun rights legislation and educational programs, and don't give any of it to support political candidate activities.
Monday, January 23, 2012
Law Enforcement and Concealed Carry
Often the subject of what to do when questioned by a law enforcement officer (LEO) and you have a concealed carry permit and are carrying a weapon. Many concealed carry (CC) gun owners state that they will not divulge that they have a permit and are carrying unless asked. Others think that informing a LEO right away is the correct thing to do.
When I consider this I put myself in the place of, say a Highway Patrol officer who has stopped me for some violation or issue. In his or her case, I would feel much better and more secure knowing that I was dealing with a person who is licensed to carry a concealed weapon and who so informed me, right up front. I would not like surprises and would feel that the person I stopped was immediately dealing with me honestly and cooperatively.
From my perspective, I have nothing to hide and I have a legal right and permit to carry my weapon, so there is really no reason to hide that fact. Some states, and maybe all for what I know, have your CCP (concealed carry permit) logged into the records accessible by the police dispatch anyway, so it won't be a secret once the LEO runs your plate and license. My intent - I haven't been stopped while carrying since I'm an old fart driver and seldom break traffic laws - is to stop, turn on my dome light if it is dark, roll down the window and put my hands on the top of the steering wheel. When asked for my license, I will hand it, and my CCP over for inspection, and let the LEO take it from there.
A simple matter, but important. Those LEOs are out there to help us and I believe in giving them all the help I can while staying out of their way.
When I consider this I put myself in the place of, say a Highway Patrol officer who has stopped me for some violation or issue. In his or her case, I would feel much better and more secure knowing that I was dealing with a person who is licensed to carry a concealed weapon and who so informed me, right up front. I would not like surprises and would feel that the person I stopped was immediately dealing with me honestly and cooperatively.
From my perspective, I have nothing to hide and I have a legal right and permit to carry my weapon, so there is really no reason to hide that fact. Some states, and maybe all for what I know, have your CCP (concealed carry permit) logged into the records accessible by the police dispatch anyway, so it won't be a secret once the LEO runs your plate and license. My intent - I haven't been stopped while carrying since I'm an old fart driver and seldom break traffic laws - is to stop, turn on my dome light if it is dark, roll down the window and put my hands on the top of the steering wheel. When asked for my license, I will hand it, and my CCP over for inspection, and let the LEO take it from there.
A simple matter, but important. Those LEOs are out there to help us and I believe in giving them all the help I can while staying out of their way.
Lasers for handguns
The topic of "to laser" or "not to laser" is a big one that crops up on our forum regularly. It's been an ongoing topic for a number of years and shows no sign of being resolved. For handguns the main contenders seem to be from Crimson Trace, LaserLyte and LaserMax, the latter being outfitted on some guns from Ruger. If you want to see a laser maker's rationale for using one of their sights, check the Crimson Trace website http://www.crimsontrace.com/ for their descriptions and videos. They are, obviously, pro-laser but you will see on their site videos dramatic examples of where and when lasers can be effective.
However, there is a large contingent of gun owners who do not use or, in some cases, approve of laser sights. I will attempt to describe the competing viewpoints below. Bear in mind, that for this discussion, the intended use of laser sights is for self-defense scenarios, not for improving your score at the target range. And, although it may be obvious to most of you, the laser sight works by emitting a tight, red (or sometimes green) laser light beam which shows up as a red or green dot where the gun is aimed, since the laser sight is aligned with the gun's point of impact at a particular range. The shooter turns on the laser, points the gun until the dot is on the target and shoots. Simple. Well, maybe, and maybe not.
Pro-Lasers
Anti-Lasers
There are further nuances to these arguments, such as how the laser is energized, what holsters are the best, etc.
My take on laser sights at this point is that they are very much a personal preference item. Some gun owners love them and are very effective with them. Some are on the fence, even with a sight installed on their carry weapon, and others don't like them at all. What makes it difficult is that there is really no way to try out a laser sight without having to buy it. I do not believe any laser manufacturer has a "try it before you buy it" offer. Many holster makers do, so I wonder why Crimson Trace or others don't adopt this program. If a person got a laser under this program, installed it and tried it for, say a week or two, then returned it in undamaged and operating condition, in the same packaging, the manufacturer would be out little cost. And, I think might sell more units in the long run.
However, there is a large contingent of gun owners who do not use or, in some cases, approve of laser sights. I will attempt to describe the competing viewpoints below. Bear in mind, that for this discussion, the intended use of laser sights is for self-defense scenarios, not for improving your score at the target range. And, although it may be obvious to most of you, the laser sight works by emitting a tight, red (or sometimes green) laser light beam which shows up as a red or green dot where the gun is aimed, since the laser sight is aligned with the gun's point of impact at a particular range. The shooter turns on the laser, points the gun until the dot is on the target and shoots. Simple. Well, maybe, and maybe not.
Pro-Lasers
- They are very good, if not essential, in the dark or in poorly-lighted situations.
- They provide a point of aim if the shooter is not able to align his or her gun sights on target, say if you were down on your back, or shooting primarily from behind cover.
- They are good for "point-and-shoot" scenarios when there is no time to present your gun in such a way as to acquire a sight picture before shooting.
- They are good training devices helping you to see where your point of aim will be when you actually pull the trigger.
Anti-Lasers
- In the dark or poorly lighted environments, the laser beam is a dead giveaway to your location.
- And, in self defense situations when quick shooting is essential a good shooter can align his or her weapon well enough without depending on finding a laser dot on or near the targer.
- If you are behind cover, you will have time to aim anyway, and with or without a laser sight, you'll still have to expose yourself enough to see the target.
- Quick point and shoot scenarios are just that: draw, point and shoot with no time to watch for that little red dot. Effective point-and-shoot technique really does not depend on aiming, but on instinctive pointing which comes with practice.
- Yes, they are good training devices, but you should not depend upon them in a self-defense situation.
- And, a laser creates dependency on that technology, and technology can malfunction, especially when you need it most.
There are further nuances to these arguments, such as how the laser is energized, what holsters are the best, etc.
My take on laser sights at this point is that they are very much a personal preference item. Some gun owners love them and are very effective with them. Some are on the fence, even with a sight installed on their carry weapon, and others don't like them at all. What makes it difficult is that there is really no way to try out a laser sight without having to buy it. I do not believe any laser manufacturer has a "try it before you buy it" offer. Many holster makers do, so I wonder why Crimson Trace or others don't adopt this program. If a person got a laser under this program, installed it and tried it for, say a week or two, then returned it in undamaged and operating condition, in the same packaging, the manufacturer would be out little cost. And, I think might sell more units in the long run.
Sunday, January 22, 2012
How to deal with a BUG (Back Up Gun)
I have come around to the view that carrying a BUG is often a good thing. There are the standard arguments, which are standard because they make sense, such as having another weapon if your first one malfunctions and you can't clear it, or in case you drop it or get it taken away from you, or you run out of ammo with your first gun. Now, while these make sense, figuring out which BUG will work for you and how to carry it in addition to your main carry can be a problem.
A BUG should be easily concealable without too much fuss. That means it should be very small. This usually means a semi auto pistol since small frame revolvers like the Ruger LCR are small, but they aren't particularly thin due to that pesky cylinder. When it comes to concealment, it is hard to beat thin. So, in the semi-auto field there are a few choices, among them are the KelTec, Ruger LCP, Bodyguard, etc. All have their supporters and it doesn't really matter which one you choose if it suits you - fits your hand well and you don't hate the design - and it is reliable with sufficient power to stop a threat at the last resort.
Some carry .22 cal BUGs on the theory that they can hit what they aim at and a bunch of .22s slamming into you will certainly act as a deterrent. Maybe.I support the view that, with modern self defense ammunition like the Hornady Critical Defense and Speer Gold Dot rounds, the .380 semi auto is a sufficiently powerful self defense weapon, whether carried as a BUG or a main weapon. For my personal use, I have the Ruger LCP.
Now, the question is, where and how to carry the thing when you also have a bigger handgun strapped somewhere about your body? Common sense offers a few guidelines.Unless you enjoy many heavy items hanging off your belt, inside the waistband or out, you will probably want to carry your BUG somewhere other than there. If your main gun is worn on your strong side, especially at 3, 4 or 5 o'clock, you don't want your BUG sitting snugly in your strong side back pocket. Chances are the main gun holster will interfere with drawing the BUG. However, if you use a Remora holster for your main carry, this would not be as big an issue, since once you have drawin your main gun, the Remora will collapse under the belt's pressure and shouldn't act as a barrier to the BUG in the same side back pocket.
You could carry the BUG in a cross-draw rig on your weak side, which seems an attractive proposition until you conisder that if someone directly in front of you goes for your gun in a fight, if they get it out of it's holster on your cross-draw side, it is immediately pointing directly at you. Not something I would want to happen. So, for me, as much as I like the idea, cross-draw rigs are out, for BUG or main carry.
You could carry the BUG IWB (In Waist Band) or OWB (Outside Waist Band) on your weak side at 3, 4, or 5 o'clock, which would make sense if your strong side arm or hand were injured or otherwise occupied, like holding someone off you. You would need to practice a lot to become proficient with your "weak" side hand, which is not a bad idea anyway. However, until I decide to do that and become sufficiently proficient at it, the BUG weak side position is out.
I don't consider SOB (Small Of the Back) a viable carry anyway since I wouldn't want to fall on my gun and drive it into my spine. I would think that sitting would be a literal pain in the back too.There is always ankle carry, but I can't see myself doing that. Besides, I normally wear cowboy boots, so I'd think access would be a real issue for me.
So, my conclusion is that the best place for a BUG is in a pocket. Front or back, depending on how the main weapon is carried. For this, the BUG should be slim, no fat or sticky grips and fitted to a holster that will keep it upright and oriented correctly, cover the trigger for safety and be adaptable for use in any pocket on any side for the most flexibility. For this, the synthetic pocket holsters will work well and there are many to choose from at reasonable cost. Some include a panel that sits between the gun and the outside of the pocket to keep the gun from printing (showing it's outline through your pocket).
I prefer leather holsters fitted to the particular gun, so my choices right now would be leather pocket holsters that have detachable leather panels for anti-printing, and that can be reconfigured to either the front or back pockets. The two I know about now, and I am sure there are others, are made by craftsmen in Texas. One is from Doug Childers of Bear Creek Holsters in New Braunfelds and the other by D. M. Bullard in Azle, Tesas. Both are excellent holsters and will surely outlast me.
I will eventually end up with a pocket holster from one of these makers after I sell a few of the now useless ones I have to fund yet another holster. The good thing is I am about at the end of my search for solid carry methods and holsters so that should be the last of them I will need to buy, at least for the guns I have now.
I also believe there is great value in finding what works best for your everyday carry weapon, or weapons, then sticking to that so that you become always familiar with them and won't get flustered if you need to react in a hurry and you are running on full automatic. It won't do to start asking yourself, now where did I put that BUG, or main carry weapon today, when seconds count.
Photo: D.M. Bullard PWC (Pocket Wallet Carry) holster.
A BUG should be easily concealable without too much fuss. That means it should be very small. This usually means a semi auto pistol since small frame revolvers like the Ruger LCR are small, but they aren't particularly thin due to that pesky cylinder. When it comes to concealment, it is hard to beat thin. So, in the semi-auto field there are a few choices, among them are the KelTec, Ruger LCP, Bodyguard, etc. All have their supporters and it doesn't really matter which one you choose if it suits you - fits your hand well and you don't hate the design - and it is reliable with sufficient power to stop a threat at the last resort.
Some carry .22 cal BUGs on the theory that they can hit what they aim at and a bunch of .22s slamming into you will certainly act as a deterrent. Maybe.I support the view that, with modern self defense ammunition like the Hornady Critical Defense and Speer Gold Dot rounds, the .380 semi auto is a sufficiently powerful self defense weapon, whether carried as a BUG or a main weapon. For my personal use, I have the Ruger LCP.
Now, the question is, where and how to carry the thing when you also have a bigger handgun strapped somewhere about your body? Common sense offers a few guidelines.Unless you enjoy many heavy items hanging off your belt, inside the waistband or out, you will probably want to carry your BUG somewhere other than there. If your main gun is worn on your strong side, especially at 3, 4 or 5 o'clock, you don't want your BUG sitting snugly in your strong side back pocket. Chances are the main gun holster will interfere with drawing the BUG. However, if you use a Remora holster for your main carry, this would not be as big an issue, since once you have drawin your main gun, the Remora will collapse under the belt's pressure and shouldn't act as a barrier to the BUG in the same side back pocket.
You could carry the BUG in a cross-draw rig on your weak side, which seems an attractive proposition until you conisder that if someone directly in front of you goes for your gun in a fight, if they get it out of it's holster on your cross-draw side, it is immediately pointing directly at you. Not something I would want to happen. So, for me, as much as I like the idea, cross-draw rigs are out, for BUG or main carry.
You could carry the BUG IWB (In Waist Band) or OWB (Outside Waist Band) on your weak side at 3, 4, or 5 o'clock, which would make sense if your strong side arm or hand were injured or otherwise occupied, like holding someone off you. You would need to practice a lot to become proficient with your "weak" side hand, which is not a bad idea anyway. However, until I decide to do that and become sufficiently proficient at it, the BUG weak side position is out.
I don't consider SOB (Small Of the Back) a viable carry anyway since I wouldn't want to fall on my gun and drive it into my spine. I would think that sitting would be a literal pain in the back too.There is always ankle carry, but I can't see myself doing that. Besides, I normally wear cowboy boots, so I'd think access would be a real issue for me.
So, my conclusion is that the best place for a BUG is in a pocket. Front or back, depending on how the main weapon is carried. For this, the BUG should be slim, no fat or sticky grips and fitted to a holster that will keep it upright and oriented correctly, cover the trigger for safety and be adaptable for use in any pocket on any side for the most flexibility. For this, the synthetic pocket holsters will work well and there are many to choose from at reasonable cost. Some include a panel that sits between the gun and the outside of the pocket to keep the gun from printing (showing it's outline through your pocket).
I prefer leather holsters fitted to the particular gun, so my choices right now would be leather pocket holsters that have detachable leather panels for anti-printing, and that can be reconfigured to either the front or back pockets. The two I know about now, and I am sure there are others, are made by craftsmen in Texas. One is from Doug Childers of Bear Creek Holsters in New Braunfelds and the other by D. M. Bullard in Azle, Tesas. Both are excellent holsters and will surely outlast me.
I will eventually end up with a pocket holster from one of these makers after I sell a few of the now useless ones I have to fund yet another holster. The good thing is I am about at the end of my search for solid carry methods and holsters so that should be the last of them I will need to buy, at least for the guns I have now.
I also believe there is great value in finding what works best for your everyday carry weapon, or weapons, then sticking to that so that you become always familiar with them and won't get flustered if you need to react in a hurry and you are running on full automatic. It won't do to start asking yourself, now where did I put that BUG, or main carry weapon today, when seconds count.
Photo: D.M. Bullard PWC (Pocket Wallet Carry) holster.
Mods come, mods go...
After wearing the LCP with the new Hogue grips for a couple of days in the Uncle George and the Nemesis pocket holsters I have removed them today and gone back to the stock skinny grips. If one was primarily wearing the LCP in an OWB, or some IWB holsters, these would probably work fine, and they do add thickness and heft to the pistol which improves the grip. However, they are just too big and somewhat sticky for pocket use. The Uncle George back pocket holster works very well with the stock LCP, but the Hogue grips add just enough width and friction to make a clean draw a sometimes thing. That is not acceptable for a self-defense concealed pistol. Things were not all that better with the Nemesis (or Remora) when carried in a pocket. Front or back, did not seem to make much difference. So, off they went and I'll probably sell them on my forum.
Saturday, January 21, 2012
Modifications
With warmer weather soon to come - can't be too soon for me now - I will be relying on my Ruger LC9 as my main carry gun. I may or may not also pack a backup gun. The jury is still out on that one for me. I do have an LCP that I can carry in an Uncle George back pocket holster, or a Nemesis front pocket holster, and various other IWB (In Waist Band) and OWB (Outside Waist Band) rigs for it.
I will have soon a Crossbreed MiniTuck holster for the LC9 to supplement the Remora I currently use for IWB. So, in some terms, I am modifying my carry system. I have also put some easy mods on my guns. First, I replaced the standard recoil springs on the LCP with #12 Wolff springs. This was to keep the ejected brass closer to me and to lessen the recoil impact on the frame. During one session of shooting with the LCP I noticed the takedown pin was beginning to move out from the frame. I popped it back in and kept shooting with no further problems. Afterwards, I called Ruger customer support and discussed this with them. Instead of returning the pistol for their analysis, I ordered a new takedown pin and installed it. That's when I also got the Wolff springs.
The theory being that with more energy taken up by the heavier springs on recoil, less will be transmitted to the frame causing less jarring of the takedown pin. This has worked so far. Time and more rounds fired with tell though.
I also installed the new Hogue "fat" grip on the LCP. It provides a better grip on the small gun which I like, but renders the Uncle George holster more difficult to draw from. I don't think this will be an issue and I am still experimenting with that.
Finally, the LCP was equipped with a set of Nitesiters, glow in the dark sight dots. The LCP does not really have useful sights, which is not all that important for a close-in, point and shoot self defense gun anyway, but I thought they might be useful in the dark.
I am not a fan of lasers. I'll get into that in another post.
My other modification was to install a new stainless steel guide rod, made by Steve Bedair from Bedair Machine Works in Gladewater, Texas. The stock plastic rod has performed fine, but it is a large and crucial part in a semiautomatic handgun, so I decided that I would feel better with one made from steel.
That's it for those guns. Some people will get into other modifications - shorter trigger pulls, lighter triggers, removal of the magazine disconnect and loaded indicators, etc. I figure I can train to use those features, including the safety if present, and will stick with the designers' intentions.
I will have soon a Crossbreed MiniTuck holster for the LC9 to supplement the Remora I currently use for IWB. So, in some terms, I am modifying my carry system. I have also put some easy mods on my guns. First, I replaced the standard recoil springs on the LCP with #12 Wolff springs. This was to keep the ejected brass closer to me and to lessen the recoil impact on the frame. During one session of shooting with the LCP I noticed the takedown pin was beginning to move out from the frame. I popped it back in and kept shooting with no further problems. Afterwards, I called Ruger customer support and discussed this with them. Instead of returning the pistol for their analysis, I ordered a new takedown pin and installed it. That's when I also got the Wolff springs.
The theory being that with more energy taken up by the heavier springs on recoil, less will be transmitted to the frame causing less jarring of the takedown pin. This has worked so far. Time and more rounds fired with tell though.
I also installed the new Hogue "fat" grip on the LCP. It provides a better grip on the small gun which I like, but renders the Uncle George holster more difficult to draw from. I don't think this will be an issue and I am still experimenting with that.
Finally, the LCP was equipped with a set of Nitesiters, glow in the dark sight dots. The LCP does not really have useful sights, which is not all that important for a close-in, point and shoot self defense gun anyway, but I thought they might be useful in the dark.
I am not a fan of lasers. I'll get into that in another post.
My other modification was to install a new stainless steel guide rod, made by Steve Bedair from Bedair Machine Works in Gladewater, Texas. The stock plastic rod has performed fine, but it is a large and crucial part in a semiautomatic handgun, so I decided that I would feel better with one made from steel.
That's it for those guns. Some people will get into other modifications - shorter trigger pulls, lighter triggers, removal of the magazine disconnect and loaded indicators, etc. I figure I can train to use those features, including the safety if present, and will stick with the designers' intentions.
Friday, January 20, 2012
Reliability and Risk
One of the big questions about legal concealed carry for self defense is which gun will be the most reliable. Which will be most likely to go "bang" if you have to pull the trigger. Many people would say that a double-barrel shotgun is the best answer, but when you have to factor in other considerations the picture becomes much more complicated.
You cannot easily conceal a double-barrel shotgun for every day carry. Nor would most people want to. Given that a legal concealed carrier will desire to keep his or her gun concealed from others, yet have it readily accessible when needed, comfortable to carry so it isn't left at home, and reliabile so that it works when needed, the question of what to carry and how becomes thorny indeed.
Probably the most popular handgun for concealed carry is some version of the semi-automatic pistol, usually a center fire caliber since these have more power than a rimfire gun. Two questions follow on from that.
One, which caliber should I carry?
Two, what size gun?
Both questions are important and both have their adherents. You will find that many people consider anything less than a .45 caliber handgun to be next to useless for self defense. Their argument usually relies on what they call "stopping power", i.e., the ability of a bullet to generate enough energy into a target to "stop" that target from further action. There remains much debate about the idea of "stopping power" in the knowledgeable gun community.
The idea that one can shoot a full sized adult with a .45 caliber bullet and knock that person down is pretty far fetched. It might work sometimes, but mostly it probably won't for various reasons. The person shot is too cranked up on adrenalin or other stimulants to be much affected. Big animals, shot with large caliber rifle bullets will often not realize they are "dead" and continue to charge or run, as the case may be, for a relatively long period after being shot. So, a big bullet is no surety of "stopping power".
Also, one must be able to actually hit the target. If you miss, it doesn't much matter what caliber of bullet you use.
You will find that most law enforcement and military handgun applications have moved away from the big .45 caliber guns to smaller calibers, the 9 mm being the world-wide favorite at this moment. There are variations of course: .40 caliber, .38 special for certain applications, etc. But this shows that the idea of "stopping power" being the most important is no longer in favor.
Modern ammunition loads that are designed for self defense are very effective in sizes from .380 auto, considered the minimum self defense caliber by many, up through the larger calibers. This is important because the effectiveness of a self defense round is not restricted to caliber and power. The design of the bullet and it's characteristics relative to particular handguns is very important. For example, a well designed .380 auto self defense round, like the Hornady Critical Defense round, may have as much, or more, effect on an adult assailant as a basic .45 caliber full metal jacket bullet fired from a short-barreled .45 pistol. This is certainly true if the .380 bullet is better placed into the target than the .45 round.
Besides these factors, a person carrying for self defense must also consider size and weight of the handgun. Most people will not lug around a two-pound pistol every day, even though their intentions are good to start with. Gun manufacturers have recognized this and responded with a slew of "compact" handguns, both semi-autos and revolvers. The overall aim is to combine what the buying public will consider sufficient "power" with compact size and lighter weight in order to arrive at a perfect carry pistol. Such a gun does not exist, given that everyone has their own idea of perfect. However, there are now many more options to choose from for a daily carry handgun.
It is almost a truism that the best self defense gun is the one you have with you when you need it. No matter if you favor a full size model 1911 .45 semi-auto loaded with outstanding self defense ammunition. If it is home in the safe, or locked in the car because it's become a real pain to carry all day, it is for all real purposes useless as a self defense weapon. I think this is the fundamental reason behind the amazing sales of Ruger's little LCP (Light Compact Pistol). They seem to be selling them as fast as they can make them. They are small, light and very effective when loaded with modern .380 self defense ammunition. Even though many gun "writers" term them derisively as "mouse guns", a great many average people (and many knowledgeable gun owners) are buying and carrying them for self defense. I've yet to meet a person who snorts at these "mouse guns" who will volunteer to be shot with one. That says something.
With the success of the LCP and the LCR (the .38 Special and .357 magnum revolver versions of "light and compact") from Ruger, the market has responded by producing an increasing number and models of "light and compact" for concealed carry. There are many options now.
Perhaps a more crucial question of having a gun with you when you need it, is the one of reliability. If you pull out your compact semi-auto pistol and pull the trigger and it doesn't go "bang", things can turn ugly really fast. No one wants to have a gun that won't work.
The internet gun communications - sites and forums mainly - are rife with tales of malfunctioning guns. If one read solely these and did not put this talk into perspective, you would think a semi-automatic pistol was a fragile beast liable to malfunction at any time. Since most of the worlds police and military depend upon semi-automatic sidearms, this is manifestly not the case. But, it is true that at some times, some guns (probably all guns) will fail. The question is, can you depend upon a certain brand and type of gun to be reliable enough to trust for every day carry?
This question will require a lot of thought and research. My internet forum members will continue to be a great help with this question and I'll give it some deep thought as well. After all, I am personally very interested in this question.
You cannot easily conceal a double-barrel shotgun for every day carry. Nor would most people want to. Given that a legal concealed carrier will desire to keep his or her gun concealed from others, yet have it readily accessible when needed, comfortable to carry so it isn't left at home, and reliabile so that it works when needed, the question of what to carry and how becomes thorny indeed.
Probably the most popular handgun for concealed carry is some version of the semi-automatic pistol, usually a center fire caliber since these have more power than a rimfire gun. Two questions follow on from that.
One, which caliber should I carry?
Two, what size gun?
Both questions are important and both have their adherents. You will find that many people consider anything less than a .45 caliber handgun to be next to useless for self defense. Their argument usually relies on what they call "stopping power", i.e., the ability of a bullet to generate enough energy into a target to "stop" that target from further action. There remains much debate about the idea of "stopping power" in the knowledgeable gun community.
The idea that one can shoot a full sized adult with a .45 caliber bullet and knock that person down is pretty far fetched. It might work sometimes, but mostly it probably won't for various reasons. The person shot is too cranked up on adrenalin or other stimulants to be much affected. Big animals, shot with large caliber rifle bullets will often not realize they are "dead" and continue to charge or run, as the case may be, for a relatively long period after being shot. So, a big bullet is no surety of "stopping power".
Also, one must be able to actually hit the target. If you miss, it doesn't much matter what caliber of bullet you use.
You will find that most law enforcement and military handgun applications have moved away from the big .45 caliber guns to smaller calibers, the 9 mm being the world-wide favorite at this moment. There are variations of course: .40 caliber, .38 special for certain applications, etc. But this shows that the idea of "stopping power" being the most important is no longer in favor.
Modern ammunition loads that are designed for self defense are very effective in sizes from .380 auto, considered the minimum self defense caliber by many, up through the larger calibers. This is important because the effectiveness of a self defense round is not restricted to caliber and power. The design of the bullet and it's characteristics relative to particular handguns is very important. For example, a well designed .380 auto self defense round, like the Hornady Critical Defense round, may have as much, or more, effect on an adult assailant as a basic .45 caliber full metal jacket bullet fired from a short-barreled .45 pistol. This is certainly true if the .380 bullet is better placed into the target than the .45 round.
Besides these factors, a person carrying for self defense must also consider size and weight of the handgun. Most people will not lug around a two-pound pistol every day, even though their intentions are good to start with. Gun manufacturers have recognized this and responded with a slew of "compact" handguns, both semi-autos and revolvers. The overall aim is to combine what the buying public will consider sufficient "power" with compact size and lighter weight in order to arrive at a perfect carry pistol. Such a gun does not exist, given that everyone has their own idea of perfect. However, there are now many more options to choose from for a daily carry handgun.
It is almost a truism that the best self defense gun is the one you have with you when you need it. No matter if you favor a full size model 1911 .45 semi-auto loaded with outstanding self defense ammunition. If it is home in the safe, or locked in the car because it's become a real pain to carry all day, it is for all real purposes useless as a self defense weapon. I think this is the fundamental reason behind the amazing sales of Ruger's little LCP (Light Compact Pistol). They seem to be selling them as fast as they can make them. They are small, light and very effective when loaded with modern .380 self defense ammunition. Even though many gun "writers" term them derisively as "mouse guns", a great many average people (and many knowledgeable gun owners) are buying and carrying them for self defense. I've yet to meet a person who snorts at these "mouse guns" who will volunteer to be shot with one. That says something.
With the success of the LCP and the LCR (the .38 Special and .357 magnum revolver versions of "light and compact") from Ruger, the market has responded by producing an increasing number and models of "light and compact" for concealed carry. There are many options now.
Perhaps a more crucial question of having a gun with you when you need it, is the one of reliability. If you pull out your compact semi-auto pistol and pull the trigger and it doesn't go "bang", things can turn ugly really fast. No one wants to have a gun that won't work.
The internet gun communications - sites and forums mainly - are rife with tales of malfunctioning guns. If one read solely these and did not put this talk into perspective, you would think a semi-automatic pistol was a fragile beast liable to malfunction at any time. Since most of the worlds police and military depend upon semi-automatic sidearms, this is manifestly not the case. But, it is true that at some times, some guns (probably all guns) will fail. The question is, can you depend upon a certain brand and type of gun to be reliable enough to trust for every day carry?
This question will require a lot of thought and research. My internet forum members will continue to be a great help with this question and I'll give it some deep thought as well. After all, I am personally very interested in this question.
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