The Bond Arms Snake Slayer Holster Report

As I mentioned earlier, I have been trying out my Bond Arms Snake Slayer derringer in various holsters for the puprose of determining, for me at least, which are most suitable for carrying this pistol concealed. I have used the following: Remora clipless (and modified with a kydex clip), the Bond Arms driving cross-draw, and the OWB belt clip holsters, and the D.M. Bullard OWB cross draw holster.

 

This has been an excercise in expectations. Before embarking on this analysis, I had pretty well figured that the modified Remora and the Bond Arms driving holsters would come out on top. But, as with many assumptions and expectations, this did not prove out to be so. The short version - details to follow - is that, for me, the best concealed OWB carry holster is the D.M. Bullard cross draw. By a big margin. For IWB carry, the Remora with attached mag pouch, that I modified with a kydex clip and carry either appendix or cross draw, depending on the situation, works best. Strangely, though, I also have a D.M. Bullard IWB holster with belt loop for my SR9c which accommodates the Snake Slayer beautifully. I could also use this one as an IWB option, and sometimes do. Now to details.

I found both of Bond Arms holsters to be extremely well made. Beautiful leather and craftsmanship. Nothing at all to complain about with either of them. What knocked them out of contention for me were design decisions, not quality of materials or workmanship.

The Bond Arms Belt Clip holster

Bond Arms Belt Clip Holster

Bond Arms clip

Bond Arms Belt Clip Holster top

The OWB belt clip holster is plainly not suitable for conclealed carry if the retention strap is left on the holster. Although it is there to 'retain' the gun for OWB carry, it's really not needed for concealed carry, but instead is an additional, and unnecessary, impediment to a reasonably quick draw. If it was a thumb-break strap, then it might be more suitable, but as it is, you must unsnap the strap, then, hoping it doesn't get in between your hand and the grips, grasp the pistol for the draw. Frankly, one could use this holster without the strap and it would retain the pistol just fine, the fit is that good. Also, for concealed carry, this holster must be worn with a long cover garment because the holster rides so low on the belt. It is a fine holser for open carry though and I would recommend it for that without reservation.

 

The Driving (cross draw) Holster did not fare well as a general concealed carry rig for me. I was surprised at this. I've seen the videos and the photos and know this is an innovative and functional design. For sitting (including in a car, restaurant, at home, etc.) the design is very good, once properly broken in. However, when not sitting - standing, walking about, running, etc. - the holster did not work so well for me.

The Driving Holster had the longest and most difficult break in of the four. The fit was extremely tight. Not unexpected in a good leather holster, but certainly more tight than any other quality leather holster I've used. And I've used more than a few. After a few days of break in using the derringer tightly wrapped in a few layers of kitchen cling wrap, and many insertions and withdrawls from the holster, I got it to the point where it would grudgingly release. The thumb break strap also took a deal of flexing and snapping/unsnapping to attach without a struggle. Attaching the holster to my gun belt with the leather flap and velcro was easy enough, but it would not hold quite tightly enough, nor the end of the flap tuck under, or against, the holster, until the leather flap itself was sufficiently broken in to curl around the holster body and not spring away from it.

Once all that was in readiness, the thumb break and draw were easy enough to surrender to a firm pull, and the flap was attached securely to the belt and holster, I began working on the access and draw technique. The thumb break strap is attached so that it doesn't readily interfere with the draw. The holster securing-flap however, did not hold tightly enough to keep the holster from sliding along the belt until it fetched up against a belt loop and stopped, where I was then able to extract the pistol from the holster. After fooling with this for a while, I found the solution to be a combination of more break-in for the holster so the pistol did not fit so tightly but was on the verge of loose, a tightened belt (which I don't particularly like. It was tight enough to begin with.) and a tighter wrap of the leather flap around the belt, which can only be so tight because of the nature of the velcro securing patch. You can't pull it tighter like you could with a buckle, for example.

With the horizontal carry position, and the need to have a non-tight fit of the gun to the holster, a thumb break is essential, otherwise, the pistol will eventually, if not sooner, fall out of the holster. I don't worry about it discharging due to the rebounding hammer and the single-action design of the gun, but the Snake Slayer is no lightweight. If it lands on your foot, you will certainly know it. Not to mention, so will everyone else in the room.

My other objection to this holster for concealed carry is that it would, in my case at least, being tall and relatively slim, be restricted to times and places where I can wear a very loose shirt, or jacket, vest or some other concealment garment. Even with the horizontal, up front, orientation of this holster, I does not hide very well without a good cover. For me, light shirts and t-shirts are out.

My conclusion is that if one is primarily wanting a driving or sitting holster, the Bond Arms Driving holster will work fine, once properly broken in and used correctly. But for concealed carry, when one is moving around, sitting, standing, bending, and perhaps running, I don't think it is the best choice.

 

The modified Remora. I attached a black kydex clip where the mag pouch is sewn into the holster. This means it really does not move, which is an issue with Remora clipless holsters, regardless of what many reviews say. If you don't move around much, the cllpless versions are just fine. They basically stay generally where you put them, but, for me, they have moved around, swiveled, rotated and on occasion, depending on where I put them, began to work up and out of my waistband. I think the Remora with attached mag pouch is both a good idea, and, given the almost double surface area, makes for stable and extremely comfortable holsters. I just wanted the extra confidence of the clip, and this has worked out beautifully for me. One kydex belt clip. One chicago screw. One drilled hole. Shazam! An improvement to an already good holster.

The other positive thing about this rig, is that it perfectly fits the Snake Slayer and the mag pouch will hold three .410 shells flat, or you can get four in there in a diamond configuration, which doesn't add enough bulk to impact the concealability of the holster. The other good things are that this rig is inexpensive - under $30 - and can be worn cross draw or appendix carrry (my favorites) and is easily slipped on and off. I have this set up for my LCP as well.

 

 

Lastly, but in first place, is the D.M. Bullard OWB cross draw holster. Here are the good points: one of the best made leather holsters on the market today. Exact fit to the pistol to such a degree that it really required no break in. Really. I've had a number of Bullard holsters, and they all were excellent in fit, but they also required a small amount of break in. This one did not. Holds tight, but easy to draw. I'm not sure how this was accomplished, but I'm not complaining. Just the opposite.

D. M. Bullard Cross Draw Holster front

D. M. Bullard Cross Draw Holster back

The holster secures to the belt with a loop sewn on the back of the holster body and a forward-facing 'wing' of heavy leather for the second belt loop attachment. This serves to keep the holster close against the body and pulled in tightly to keep the butt of the gun from swinging outward. The nice thing about this design is that it does not require another layer of 'reinforcing' leather to be sewn around the holster mouth. It is just not needed. When I wear this one just forward of my hip bone, it tucks right in and disappears under almost any kind of shirt. When I am going into the 'city', I often throw on a light leather western vest over my shirt and that really makes the holster and Snake Slayer disappear.

 

 

I have often worn this setup around the house all day under a light sweater or long sleeve t-shirt and not only do others not know it is there, I sometimes am unaware of it as well.

Although I have not, obviously, used the Bond Arms holsters for an extended period, I have a few well worn Bullard holsters in my rotation for different guns. They show the marks and wear associated with long use, as you would expect from a good leather holster. Character marks, I call them. Even though not as pretty as when new, they fit me and the guns made for them almost perfectly. Often, after a long period of carrying in another type of holster, I will get home and switch to one of my Bullards. It is sort of like slipping into a favorite pair of comfortable slippers. That is the real test. If a holster fits me right, functionally as well as physically, it is going to stay around a long while. The others eventually find a new home somewhere.

I generally prefer OWB carry when I can and I can say without reservation, that the Bullard cross draw holster is the best I have found for this. It gets high marks in all of the categories:

• Quality
• Comfort
• Concealment
• Retention
• Fit
• Situational - doesn't matter what the situation, sitting, standing, moving about, running, etc. it performs equally well.

Holsters are very much a personal preference item. They are necessary, but all people don't like the same things. I've attemped to point out the various attributes, both positive and negative, of these four holsters in the hopes that this may help you in your choice of what works best for you.

 

Posted with Blogsy

The Bond Arms Snake Slayer Holster Report

As I mentioned earlier, I have been trying out my Bond Arms Snake Slayer derringer in various holsters for the puprose of determining, for me at least, which are most suitable for carrying this pistol concealed. I have used the following: Remora clipless (and modified with a kydex clip), the Bond Arms driving cross-draw, and the OWB belt clip holsters, and the D.M. Bullard OWB cross draw holster.

Bond Arms straight clip OWB holster

Bond Arms OWB clip

Bond Arms Driving Holster

Bond Arms Driving Holster thumb break strap

Remora (modified) with mag holder and kydex clip

This has been an excercise in expectations. Before embarking on this analysis, I had pretty well figured that the modified Remora and the Bond Arms driving holsters would come out on top. But, as with many assumptions and expectations, this did not prove out to be so. The short version - details to follow - is that, for me, the best concealed OWB carry holster is the D.M. Bullard cross draw. By a big margin. For IWB carry, the Remora with attached mag pouch, that I modified with a kydex clip and carry either appendix or cross draw, depending on the situation, works best. Strangely, though, I also have a D.M. Bullard IWB holster with belt loop for my SR9c which accommodates the Snake Slayer beautifully. I could also use this one as an IWB option, and sometimes do. Now to details.I found both of Bond Arms holsters to be extremely well made. Beautiful leather and craftsmanship. Nothing at all to complain about with either of them. What knocked them out of contention for me were design decisions, not quality of materials or workmanship. The OWB belt clip holster is plainly not suitable for conclealed carry if the retention strap is left on the holster. Although it is there to 'retain' the gun for OWB carry, it's really not needed for concealed carry, but instead is an additional, and unnecessary, impediment to a reasonably quick draw. If it was a thumb-break strap, then it might be more suitable, but as it is, you must unsnap the strap, then, hoping it doesn't get in between your hand and the grips, grasp the pistol for the draw. Frankly, one could use this holster without the strap and it would retain the pistol just fine, the fit is that good. Also, for concealed carry, this holster must be worn with a long cover garment because the holster rides so low on the belt. It is a fine holser for open carry though and I would recommend it for that without reservation.

The Driving (cross draw) Holster did not fare well as a general concealed carry rig for me. I was surprised at this. I've seen the videos and the photos and know this is an innovative and functional design. For sitting (including in a car, restaurant, at home, etc.) the design is very good, once properly broken in. However, when not sitting - standing, walking about, running, etc. - the holster did not work so well for me.

The Driving Holster had the longest and most difficult break in of the four. The fit was extremely tight. Not unexpected in a good leather holster, but certainly more tight than any other quality leather holster I've used. And I've used more than a few. After a few days of break in using the derringer tightly wrapped in a few layers of kitchen cling wrap, and many insertions and withdrawls from the holster, I got it to the point where it would grudgingly release. The thumb break strap also took a deal of flexing and snapping/unsnapping to attach without a struggle. Attaching the holster to my gun belt with the leather flap and velcro was easy enough, but it would not hold quite tightly enough, nor the end of the flap tuck under, or against, the holster, until the leather flap itself was sufficiently broken in to curl around the holster body and not spring away from it.

Once all that was in readiness, the thumb break and draw were easy enough to surrender to a firm pull, and the flap was attached securely to the belt and holster, I began working on the access and draw technique. The thumb break strap is attached so that it doesn't readily interfere with the draw. The holster securing-flap however, did not hold tightly enough to keep the holster from sliding along the belt until it fetched up against a belt loop and stopped, where I was then able to extract the pistol from the holster. After fooling with this for a while, I found the solution to be a combination of more break-in for the holster so the pistol did not fit so tightly but was on the verge of loose, a tightened belt (which I don't particularly like. It was tight enough to begin with.) and a tighter wrap of the leather flap around the belt, which can only be so tight because of the nature of the velcro securing patch. You can't pull it tighter like you could with a buckle, for example.

With the horizontal carry position, and the need to have a non-tight fit of the gun to the holster, a thumb break is essential, otherwise, the pistol will eventually, if not sooner, fall out of the holster. I don't worry about it discharging due to the rebounding hammer and the single-action design of the gun, but the Snake Slayer is no lightweight. If it lands on your foot, you will certainly know it. Not to mention, so will everyone else in the room.

My other objection to this holster for concealed carry is that it would, in my case at least, being tall and relatively slim, be restricted to times and places where I can wear a very loose shirt, or jacket, vest or some other concealment garment. Even with the horizontal, up front, orientation of this holster, I does not hide very well without a good cover. For me, light shirts and t-shirts are out.
My conclusion is that if one is primarily wanting a driving or sitting holster, the Bond Arms Driving holster will work fine, once properly broken in and used correctly. But for concealed carry, when one is moving around, sitting, standing, bending, and perhaps running, I don't think it is the best choice.
The modified Remora. I attached a black kydex clip where the mag pouch is sewn into the holster. This means it really does not move, which is an issue with Remora clipless holsters, regardless of what many reviews say. If you don't move around much, the cllpless versions are just fine. They basically stay generally where you put them, but, for me, they have moved around, swiveled, rotated and on occasion, depending on where I put them, began to work up and out of my waistband. I think the Remora with attached mag pouch is both a good idea, and, given the almost double surface area, makes for stable and extremely comfortable holsters. I just wanted the extra confidence of the clip, and this has worked out beautifully for me. One kydex belt clip. One chicago screw. One drilled hole. Shazam! An improvement to an already good holster.

The other positive thing about this rig, is that it perfectly fits the Snake Slayer and the mag pouch will hold three .410 shells flat, or you can get four in there in a diamond configuration, which doesn't add enough bulk to impact the concealability of the holster. The other good things are that this rig is inexpensive - under $30 - and can be worn cross draw or appendix carrry (my favorites) and is easily slipped on and off. I have this set up for my LCP as well.

Lastly, but in first place, is the D.M. Bullard OWB cross draw holster. Here are the good points: one of the best made leather holsters on the market today. Exact fit to the pistol to such a degree that it really required no break in. Really. I've had a number of Bullard holsters, and they all were excellent in fit, but they also required a small amount of break in. This one did not. Holds tight, but easy to draw. I'm not sure how this was accomplished, but I'm not complaining. Just the opposite.
The holster secures to the belt with a loop sewn on the back of the holster body and a forward-facing 'wing' of heavy leather for the second belt loop attachment. This serves to keep the holster close against the body and pulled in tightly to keep the butt of the gun from swinging outward. The nice thing about this design is that it does not require another layer of 'reinforcing' leather to be sewn around the holster mouth. It is just not needed. When I wear this one just forward of my hip bone, it tucks right in and disappears under almost any kind of shirt. When I am going into the 'city', I often throw on a light leather western vest over my shirt and that really makes the holster and Snake Slayer disappear.

I have often worn this setup around the house all day under a light sweater or long sleeve t-shirt and not only do others not know it is there, I sometimes am unaware of it as well.
I generally prefer OWB carry when I can and I can say without reservation, that the Bullard cross draw holster is the best I have found for this. It gets high marks in all of the categories:

• Quality
• Comfort
• Concealment
• Retention
• Fit
• Situational - doesn't matter what the situation, sitting, standing, moving about, running, etc. it performs equally well.

Holsters are very much a personal preference item. They are necessary, but all people don't like the same things. I've attemped to point out the various attributes, both positive and negative, of these four holsters in the hopes that this may help you in your choice of what works best for you.

Posted with Blogsy

Christmas Present from Texas

Well, not exactly a Christmas present, seeing as how I bought it for myself. A present to me, from me. It is a new D.M. Bullard IWB with Belt Loop for my trusty Ruger SR9c.

I've been carrying one of Dave Bullard's Belt Slide OWB holsters for my Ruger since I bought the gun. It's been through a lot and shows it, like a good leather holster will, but is still my OWB go-to holster for the SR9c. The design is such that I have also used it successfully to holster an LC9 and a Bond Arms Snake Slayer. Those were temporary solutions to a pressing need, but now it's reserved for the SR9c, as it should be.

Today I received the IWB from Dave Bullard's shop. Even though I know they have been working very hard to keep up with demand, hiring and training new people (not an easy thing when Dave's quality and craftsmanship standards are so high) and moving to a larger space to accommodate the increased work demands, the quality of my new IWB has not been compromised by all that.



It is not a good practice to say much about a holster when it is brand new. I've often found my initial enthusiasm to be misplaced because issues and irritations I had not considered come to light with actually using a holster day-to-day as they are intended to be used. But, in this case, I will say this: the fit to the pistol is right on and it's not so tight that it will take a week of break in before it is ready for duty. And, it's comfortable, right out of the box. The back of the leather is almost flat, with some moulding to the pistol shape, but not aggressively so. The 'sweat' guard (I'd call it a slide guard) cushions my delicate abdomen from the slide, yet the grips ride high enough for a good, quick grip on the draw.

I bought the version with the belt loop attachment rather than the metal clip. I don't like metal clips even though they are thinner than leather. I don't like the way the end sticks out. I know why it does that, to help you get the clip over the belt, but I've had issues with these kinds of clips before, snagging an overgarment when I lift it to uncover the pistol for the draw. The belt loop is not as thick as my belt, to put it into perspective. And, it is adjustable in cant so you can wear the holster pretty much where you like. I like the flexibility to wear my concealed firearm in different positions, depending on the situation. This one will move easily to the cross draw position when I am driving or sitting for long periods. Or I can swing it around to a strong side carry if I like.

I'll post more as time goes on about how this latest acquisition from D.M. Bullard is working out. But, since I've given many holsters the field test and I have thought long and hard about what is best for me, I think this one will become my main IWB holster, like Bullard's belt slide has become my favorite OWB holster.

Dave Bullard's website

A Powerful, Well Reasoned Statement About Civil Rights (read: 'gun control')

A friend, a former commune hippie living up in the mountains, passed this on the other day. As in most things, it is wise to not rely on assumptions. Hippies, current and former, are often considered to be left leaning, tree-hugging, socialist and anti-guns. This is perhaps the norm with city-dwelling hippies, but the ones I have lived with and known who make our homes in the country, the farms and the mountains are quite the opposite. All of the old hippies I know would agree with the 'virtual' President's statements.

I do.

Even though both sides of this question are too often drenched in emotional bullshit, if one can dig oneself out of the manure pile and marshal facts in support of your argument, it is, maybe, possible to reach some kind of consensus on this.

Just because you don't (or do) like something, doesn't mean it is wrong.

A Virtual Presidental Address on Guns

Snake Slayers, Holsters (modified and stock) and Reloads

The shot shell holder for my Snake Slayer arrived. Mine is the one on the top right. It slides over my belt and the fit is very snug so it doesn't move around. Which is good.

Bond Arms Slide Shell Holder

What is not so good is the fact that the shot shells, especially the Winchester 3" 000 buck, are slick and tend to slide up and down in the loops when you wear it in front, which I do for concealed carry. In fact, I mostly wear a pistol in the appendix position for concealed carry, this giving the best concealment, comfort and access while either sitting or standing. When the shell slide is worn in the 10 to 11 o'clock position, the normal daily movement of walking, sitting, standing, etc. will tend to push the shot shells down at different depths. In order to reliably get two of them out for a quick reload, you have to train to push two up from underneath then grab them from the top. Slows things down a little.

The other factor with a belt slide holder like this is where to carry it for concealed carry. If you are carrying the pistol at the appendix or strong side positions, then it should obviously go on the weak hand side for quick reload access. However, if you are carrying the pistol at the cross draw position, that recommended by Bond Arms for their Driving Holster, the belt slide holder has to go somewhere else. If it goes on the right side (assuming you are a right hand shooter), it's going to be awkward to access, especially if belted into your car seat. There is not enough room to carry the cross draw holster and the belt carrier on the same side. So, the alternative is to either have another gun available as a back up to go to if you have to fire more than two shots, or to stash spare shot shells in your shirt pocket or somewhere else handy in your car.

The Bond Arms Driving Holster is a solid, extremely well made leather holster built to exactly fit your Bond Arms derringer. I've seen a lot of holsters and this one is right up there with the best quality wise. In fact, it fits the derringer so precisely, that a rigorous break in period is necessary for it to perform as intended. This is not particularly easy, but it's necessary if you want the holster to perform as designed. Even though break-in can be a long process, it is in the nature of a well designed and executed leather holster. It's just part of the territory.

I use a few wraps of kitchen plastic wrap around the gun and force it into the holster. I let it sit for a while, then remove it and repeat the process. I also leave the wrapped gun in the holster over night. Working the leather around the thumb break and where it curls over the top to attach to the velcro is important for a close and sung fit. The thumb break is necessary due to the way the driving holster rides - horizontally. You want the gun to stay in the holster after it's broken in, so a thumb break is necessary for this configuration.

If the holster isn't totally broken in, when you go to release and draw the pistol, the tight fit will pull the entire rig - holster and gun - along the belt until it hits a belt loop and stops.

The Bond Arms Driving Holster - new and tight.

A black model shown in the driving, cross draw, position.

 Once properly broken in, this is a good driving (or extended sitting) holster. I can recall some excruciating meetings when I wished I'd had such a rig.... Anyway, given that the holster and gun can be easily donned and removed while in the seat, this is a good answer to the question of where to carry while sitting for ease of access. For concealed carry, it's another story.

One thing that doesn't get mentioned frequently about concealed carry is the fact the person's build has upon where and how to carry. Small skinny people have different carry requirements than big fat people. And there are those folks who fall somewhere within that spectrum. If you are a big person with a overly large gut, it's going to be much easier to conceal a handgun placed somewhere around the waistline, especially at the appendix or cross draw positions. If you are, say, tall and thin, it just gets harder.

I'm about 6' 3" and 200 pounds and while I don't have a flat, muscular stomach, I don't have a gut either, so concealing a gun of any appreciable size under a T-shirt - my favorite warm weather shirt - is not particularly easy. With the right holsters and placement, it can be done. The Bond Arms Driving Holster is not one of those rigs that lends itself to concealed carry in the warm weather for me. With my build, there is no way that setup is not going to print to a large degree. Under a loose shirt, like a flannel shirt, or perhaps a tropical print shirt or a light jacket, sure, it's going to work, but in the main, unless I can wear a pretty loose cover garment, the Driving Holster is not a good conceal carry rig for me.

The only other option I have been able to come up with is a hybrid type holster, modified by me. I took an appropriately sized IWB Remora no-clip holster with a mag pouch attached, drilled a hole between the mag pouch and the holster and attached a nice, simple kydex belt clip. The clip keeps the holster from going anywhere - sideways or up or down - and the mag pouch easily accommodate three extra .410 rounds. I padded the bottom of the mag pouch with dense foam to keep the .410 rounds at the proper height for an easy finger grab. I wish the mag pouch had been a trifle wider though. I can fit four .410 shells into the pouch, but it won't stay flat. It conceals better when it is flat.

Remora no-clip holster modified with a kydex belt clip for the Bond Arms Snake Slayer and .410 reloads.

I can carry this at the appendix or cross draw positions. When I get in the car, or someplace  where I may be sitting for along while, I unclip and slide it to the cross draw position. Or, vice versa when I like it in appendix carry position.

Gary Bond was kind enough to also send me his belt clip holster with retention strap for my Snake Slayer. It too is a quality holster and just the thing for carrying the derringer either when you can wear a coat or want to open carry. The retention strap is not so good for a concealed carry holster as it slows down the draw though.

I contacted the D.M. Bullard folks and they are sending out one of their cross draw holsters for the Bond Arms Snake Slayer. Their leather work is second to none, and David makes holsters to his own design and styles, which are well thought out and functional. Bullard's cross draw holster is an OWB with a 'negative' cant and two anchor points for the belt. Being familiar with the design, I suspect it will offer quick access while seated and also better concealment for my body type than the Driving Holster. I'll report on it after I've had a chance to break it in and carry for a while.

Reloads: This is the main issue with carrying a two shot primary self defense weapon. As I have written before, there is a matter of trade-offs and risk evaluation with a two shot weapon. Obviously, the need to quickly reload is paramount, but this may be balanced by the fact that both of those shots are going to be more powerful and effective, and probably more accurate, than the normal carry gun can produce.

I have not had the opportunity to run a set of live fire drills emphasizing reloading speed and efficiency yet. I have done a number of dry fire drills though, enough to know that this is one area where the shooter has to be proficient and fast. It is going to come down to being able to go into full "automatic" mode to open the barrels, swipe out the spent shells, lock the barrels down with the shooting hand's thumb while snatching two shells from your carrier or pocket and fully slotting them into the barrels.  Sometimes the ejectors are extended enough to inhibit a clean slot. Then snapping the barrels closed and cocking the hammer.

I have not practiced this enough to decide whether I am fast and reliable enough to depend upon it.

The Hammer: This is the last bit of not so good news. This is a single action pistol. Something to remember in these days of semi-autos and double-action revolvers. And, more importantly, with the derringer design, coupled with a strong hammer spring, it's not all that easy to cock. The smaller, curved grip doesn't provide as much leverage as a full length pistol grip does. For someone with small and weaker hands, it's going to be extremely hard to cock with only the shooting hand's thumb. A technique for cocking the pistol with the non-shooting hand as it comes out of the holster is absolutely necessary for those people, and a damn good idea for everyone.

More to remember.

So, the Bond Arms derringers are different guns that require a different approach and technique if they are to be used as a primary concealed carry weapon. The two main differences are the need to develop a fast reload procedure and a reliable easier to use cocking system.

CRKT Swindle - The Wimp Clip

Kershaw Swindle, the more expensive version

I lost my original Swindle while fly fishing. The lesson is to ensure your pants are suitable for the Swindle's clip. Generally, when wearing my Wranglers or similar pants, the holding power of the Swindle's pocket clip is fine. However, given that it is spring loaded and does not have the power of a flexed piece of metal as is usually found on other knives, it can come loose under the right (or wrong, in this case) circumstances.

The wimp clip.
Looks good, but has to be used with the right type of pocket.

I was wearing lightweight summer pants, synthetic material, thin but tough. And slick. The pockets' top seams, where they open at the top, are also very thin in comparison to Levis or Wrangler jeans. The Swindle clip tension is not very strong and security in the pocket also greatly depends on the top seam, which is thicker yet, holding the clip in place. Somewhere on the river during the day the knife worked loose from the pocket, the clip undoubtedly sliding easily over the thin pocket seam, and fell out. Adios, Swindle.

So, really liking the knife's design and blade shape, I bought another, the upgraded version with the harder steel blade and ribbed handle. I prefer the look of the plain handle but I decided to go with the better blade steel so that it would hold a sharper edge longer.

Not a good choice. I use this knife constantly on anything that needs it. Wood. Cardboard. Plastic. Onions. Meat. Potatoes. Small branches,... you name it. I'm also sharpening it every week or two. It takes a good edge, but it wears too quickly for what it is supposed to do. I think the "lower grade" steel would work as well and have to be sharpened about as much, and costs less too.

My other complaint about this knife is with the blade attachment screw. The blade rides on ball bearings - one of the innovative and strong selling points of the Swindle - and it certainly makes opening the blade extremely easy. (You have to be careful if you close it one-handed because that blade swings easily in either direction.) But, as with sharpening, I find I have to tighten it every couple of weeks because the main screw works loose.

I put a dab of a lock-tight material on it the other day, so it may stay in place now. Or not.

Given all this, I would have been better off to have bought a straight-across replacement for the less expensive Swindle. If I lose this one, or break it, I won't be getting another of the expensive versions.

Bond Arms Snake Slayer, first impressions

Bond Arms Snake Slayer
with Winchester PDX1 .410 ammo

It's big. It's stainless. It's heavy and it's made in the USA, Texas, specifically. Those were the first impressions.

Mine is the newer model with the improved trigger and broader hammer spur. It has the new style grips as well, with "checkering" in the form of snake scales and a carving of a mean looking rattler on them. They are somewhat larger in swell and sweep, giving a good, solid grip.

I have to say that in the hand, this pistol looks intimidating, especially if one is looking down those .45 caliber barrels.

I find the trigger to be crisp and positive, with sufficient pull as befits a concealed carry gun, but not at all heavy. I suspect the instances I have read in which people, usually internet posters (take that for what it's worth) complain about the heavy trigger. As far as I can tell, the trigger has always been fine. It's not the same kind of trigger as one finds on semi-autos, for example, because it swings back and down in a short arc. If the shooter keeps his or her hand from jamming underneath the cocked hammer and puts their finger properly on the trigger, it's just fine. Trigger problems are self-induced for the most part.

One aspect some people will have to get used to is the force and leverage necessary to cock the gun. If one has a proper shooting grip, cocking with the thumb of the shooting hand is not particularly easy. If the thumb is placed more forward on the hammer spur, greater leverage is gained, and it becomes easier. Still very firm, but it can be cocked this way. If a person has strong hands and grip, of course, it becomes easier. For many people though, women especially, cocking the pistol should be done and practiced differently. I suggest two methods that work well for concealed carry if one-hand cocking is an issue.

One: When drawing from concealment, the off hand will be used to pull the covering garment away for the draw. As the pistol comes out of the holster and starts toward the presentation position, use the off side hand, which will be right next to the gun at this point anyway, to fan the hammer back to the cocked position as the off hand hand rotates to assume the support position. If it is necessary to fire quickly, with one hand right after the gun leaves the holster, using the off hand to cock the weapon will have it instantly ready to fire, with the added advantage that the off hand will not be in front of the muzzle.

Two: Draw, present the gun in a two hand stance, then cock the hammer with the off hand's thumb. Very easy and quick, and the advantage that you can wait, if necessary, before putting the gun into "battery", or in this case, cocked and unlocked.

I have a .410 belt shell holder on order from Bond Arms, and Gordon Bond has offered to supply a holster or two for evaluation for concealed carry purposes. I'm looking into the D.M. Bullard cross draw holster for sitting and driving, and possibly an IWB from them as well, but I haven't heard back from Bullard.

Today is a trip to the "city" for errands, so I'll be toting the Snake Slayer as the main and the LCP as a BUG.

The testing goes on.

The Bond Arms Snake Slayer

After more thought and research into Bond Arms, I decided to purchase a Snake Slayer and give it a thorough testing as my primary carry gun.

Now, being that I also own and carry 9 mm and .380 semi-automatic pistols, why would I look to make a change to a two shot, single action derringer? Some explanation of my reasoning is in order.

First, I think there are two main theories, or schools of thought, regarding how an average citizen can approach how, what and when to carry a concealed weapon. The how and the when questions are easily answered:

How

• a method that is comfortable, so the pistol will be readily accessible given the fact that the gun will be under some kind of covering garment, 
• secure so there is no danger of the gun becoming accidentally dislodged from the holster and is secure from an unexpected grab or discovery,
• safe, so that the trigger is always covered to protect against negligent discharge,
• keep it concealed. 

When

• at all times where legally permissible. This requires that you know the law in the state where you are carrying. For example, I live about an hour's drive from another state, which I visit frequently. My carry permit is valid in both states, but the laws are somewhat different. In one, for example, I must be aware of which restaurants are compliant with the carry laws - in essence, an establishment must derive the majority of their income from food, not liquor. I wouldn't carry in a bar. Period. In one state, if the merchant posts a "No Guns" sign, the only force of law is regarding trespass. If an employee or manager knows you are carrying he or she can ask you to leave. That's it. If you don't, you could be charged with trespass.

What

This is usually where the controversy comes in, where gallons of ink (virtual and real) get spilled, tempers sometimes rise and some members have been banned from internet gun forums for letting their passion overrule their reason. As my old Company Commander in boot camp said, "Opinions are like ****, everyone has one."

In brief (and I'm not trying to cover all of the arguments, just a few of the main ones) the arguments run like this: 

Carry as big a gun as you can handle. 

This seems to be based on the old "stopping power" idea, being that one needs a large caliber, big bullet traveling at a high velocity to "stop" a man-sized, meth-crazed, 250 lb. biker assailant. Good luck with that. I don't know about you, but I have never even seen a meth-crazed, 250 lb biker and if I were attacked by one, I doubt that pistol "stopping power" would do much immediate good.

This notion of "stopping power" probably derived from tales coming out of WWI in the Pacific. While it is true that a 1911 .45 semi auto might drop a 100 pound, weak, starving, disease riddled Japanese soldier with one shot, a .22 would probably have worked about as well. The stories I heard while in the service in the 1960s about the "crazed" (insert an Asian enemy here) being shot six times with a .38 then slicing off the shooter's head with a samurai sword/machete/bayonet before collapsing is mostly b.s. Sounded good at the time though.

Modern ballistic studies, as well as studies based on actual law enforcement shootings, disprove this idea. Many assailants have been shot with many bullets of various calibers, including large ones beginning with a "4", and remained active and dangerous for some time.

One major problem with a big caliber gun firing large bullets at high velocities is their tendency to punch through a human torso, arm, leg, hand, neck, etc. and slam into something else. Like, through a sheet rock wall or door, or two. A car door, window, building. An innocent person who just happened to be in the vicinity. Missing your target with one of these big guns is bad. Who knows where those stray .44/.45/.357 rounds are going to end up when you miss?

The other problem with the "big as you can handle" gun is just carrying it. From my reading, and the people I know who have big pistols, most of them don't carry those guns regularly. They are too big and too heavy to strap on and carry all day, everywhere. And, if you have a carry permit and don't carry, what's the point? I've had people say to me, "I only carry when I'm going to need it." "I didn't know you could see into the future," I say. 

An average loaded model, 1911 .45 weighs about 45 oz. or 2.8 pounds. Think about carrying around half of a five pound sack of sugar attached to your belt. Make that three pounds with the holster, and a little more with a spare loaded magazine. Even so, you still get comments on the gun forums like, "The 1911 does weigh a little more, but it is a better gun in every other way. No one would ever or has ever disputed that." Not.

Even a more "modern" pistol, like a Glock 21 weighs 40 oz. loaded. That's 2.5 pounds. No big savings over a 1911.

I often wonder, really, how many of those Glock owners actually carry those guns regularly.

(There must be a reason why small, compact, lightweight guns like the Ruger LCP are so wildly popular...)

Shot placement

This old saw pops up with alarming regularity on the gun forums. (Again, a word of caution about gun forums. They are like men's gossip groups. There is a disproportionately large population of self-styled gun experts who post regularly in some forums but are basically opinionated jerks with little practical or actual knowledge of the subjects they pontificate on. Don't rely on gun forums to provide accurate, real and unbiased information. While there are knowledgeable, helpful people out there, it's very difficult to tell the phonies from the real ones, especially for those new to guns and self defense carry.)

The idea behind shot placement is that any caliber is effective when one shoots accurately and at a vital "stopping" area. There are more than a few things wrong with this notion. First, for 98% of the people who shoot hand guns, shooting with repeatable accuracy is not possible. Even then, the accurate and consistently good shots do their shooting on a range, at a target using techniques that have no bearing in a charged, adrenaline-fueled, self-defense shooting episode. Good sight picture. Steady trigger squeeze. Breath control. Steady hands. All of this goes out the window when someone threatens to take your life. Thinking that the average person who carries for self defense, who seldom gets to the shooting range and even more rarely practices rudimentary self defense shooting drills will be able to put his or her shots accurately on a vital target area when fighting for their lives is ludicrous. Remember that the next time your read or hear some fool promoting shot placement. 

The other fallacy behind shot placement is the idea that there are "vital stopping areas" that will drop an assailant dead in their tracks. Works pretty good on TV shows like "Justified", but in the real world, leaving aside the question of actually hitting one of those areas, who knows where and what they may be, or where to aim to get to them? Theoretically, maybe, but practically? There are documented cases of bad guys being shot in the head (surely, common gun wisdom knows this is a vital stopping area) who don't go down, but keep on shooting.

A caveat regarding laser sights
I have to note that the acceptance and use of laser sights on handguns has a direct, and positive bearing on the notion of shot placement. Many respected authorities on handguns and self defense, such as Jeff Quinn of Gunblast.com, recognize the usefulness of laser sights for the average shooter. In short, lasers make one a better shooter. Not just at night or in places of diminished light, but across the board. While it is true that an accomplished and practiced marksman or markswoman can shoot as well, perhaps better, than you or I using a laser sight, you and I will never be shooting at that level. Not unless we have the time, money and inclination to train hard enough to be a master. Most of us don't. So, it can only help with most guns like the semi-autos and revolvers being carried for self defense to buy and use a laser to improve one's marksmanship. It is also a safer thing to do for the general public. We need all of the help we can get to be sure to hit only our intended target. I have reviewed a number of lasers in this blog. I like the LaserMax variety. If you are interested, read my reviews, and others', and decide for yourself.

Carry plenty of rounds

Most modern semi-autos carry more than enough rounds for self protection. Many carry more than necessary. I have a Ruger SR9c with a seventeen round magazine. With one in the chamber, that's eighteen shots. Now, I can imagine a scenario in which I might need eighteen shots, but the odds of that actually happening are remote, to say the least. Yes, people will cite instances in which a self defense shooter needed a large number of rounds, but the odds of that happening are very slim. 

The unstated assumption behind carry plenty of rounds is that one could easily be in a situation where there are a number of assailants or it takes multiple (like four, five, six, or more) shots to stop the threat. But, if one does enough digging through reported self defense incidents that involve the person being threatened resorting to a gun you'll find that a very large number of these incidents never involve a shot being fired. The potential assailants flee at the sight of their intended victim drawing a gun. Of those in which the potential victim does fire, it usually involves only one or two rounds before the threat is stopped. The bad guys run away, sometimes uninjured, sometimes ending up at a hospital where they are usually arrested. Sometimes they are killed.

Often when multiple shots are fired, only a few find their target. The rest find unintended targets, thankfully most of them in an inert object. But not always.

The question becomes, how many rounds are enough? This is, of course, an unanswerable question. As I leaned in project management school, the real answer is "it depends."

And so we come to what I think are the real questions. Why do I legally carry a gun for self defense? And, what does that actually mean, and what am I willing to do, and not do, because of that? And, given the answers to those, what, when and how should I carry?

I carry because bad people also carry guns (and knives, and clubs, and chains, and some are much bigger, younger, and meaner than me) and until they don't, I refuse to be a victim who can't fight back.

I carry because I feel a responsibility to my family and my fellow citizens. I'm no cop, but I am a citizen and believe it is my responsibility to protect the lives of innocent people when there is no other choice.

Carrying a gun for self defense means that I am capable of using it effectively, and I will use it without hesitation if forced to do so in defense of my life or that of others. This also means I am prepared to be injured or killed in so doing.

I am not willing to risk the lives of, or injury to innocent people by firing my weapon in a manner that may do so. I must have a clear shot, even if it means exposing myself in order to shoot safely in a violent, self-defense situation.

I will choose and use a weapon that is, as much as possible, consistent with the above. 

It seems to me that many people choose their handguns with the idea that they are good shots, can hit their targets regardless of circumstance, that they require a larger and more powerful weapon that will carry enough ammunition to stand off an assault by a crowd of assailants.

I don't subscribe to those ideas. My thinking has changed to this. I want a small, reliable gun that I can carry comfortably, all the time; that is powerful enough to quickly stop an attacker, but not so much that it is a danger to others nearby; that I can shoot accurately enough at close range but its effectiveness (lethality) falls off quickly beyond that distance. At this point, my thinking is that a small, hand-held shotgun is one answer to these requirements.

Those are my reasons for choosing a Bond Arms derringer as my primary carry weapon. Firing a .410 shot shell with large diameter shot, such as 000 or 00 buckshot, or perhaps the self defense rounds that use a combination of three or four disks and BB pellets, the little gun should be very effective at short range, even with not-so-good shot placement, and will be less of a danger to others.

Two shots should be enough for the vast majority of situations I might encounter. If not, I will have the option to reload, or to resort to a small backup gun.

The Bond Arms derringer should be very reliable. It is a single action pistol with little to go wrong. No springs, slides, or revolving parts. It is designed with built in safeties using both the single action cocking and rebounding hammer.

It is small enough to carry, but large enough to do what it is meant to do.

So.... I have a Bond Arms Snake Slayer on order. Perhaps it will arrive this week. I'm putting my money where my opinion is so I can test out my theories and this innovative firearm. I will be looking at how it shoots, how it conceals, how it carries from day to day. I will be testing its reliability and use factor - how easy is it to draw from concealment, cock and fire? What kind of ammunition and shot patterns work best in self defense situations. How is the best way to carry spare rounds and reload quickly. And, anything else that occurs I think you'd want to know about.

I will report back here after I get my Snake Slayer and begin to apply some reality testing to it.

LaserMax Micro, Rail-Mounted Laser Sight

The LaserMax Micro

This is a really slick, rail-mounted laser made to fit any pistol with a rail, but especially meant for small, compact semi-automatics. Many people are buying and carrying the "compact" guns for self defense. It is an unfortunate fact that many of those, especially newcomers to concealed carry, do not have the opportunity or time for the level of training they need. Time at the range and some simple self-defense safety, drawing and firing practice are all that many people get.

Shooting a pistol accurately is not easy even for those of us who shoot and train regularly. This is especially true when the chips are down, adrenaline is pumping and one is involved in a life-or-death situation. It is also a factor when one is forced to fire a pistol in low light, or dark situations. These are the times when many self-defense shootings occur.


It is incumbent on all who carry legally to be as safe with their firearm as possible, especially when innocent bystanders are around. This means you must be able to actually hit what you are aiming to hit. Aiming a pistol properly with iron sights is difficult at the best of times. At the worst, it pays to have as much help as you can get. That's where laser sights come in.

LaserMax has been making laser sighting devices for many years. Handgun sights are only part of their business and expertise. Recognizing the need to provide a very small, lightweight, reasonably priced, and easily installed laser sight for compact semi-autos with rail mounts, they have produced the Micro. LaserMax was kind enough to provide one for me to evaluate on my Ruger SR9c, one of my favorite 'compact' carry pistols.

I was not interested in a larger, under the slide type of laser sight for this gun. It is more an issue of esthetics with me. I like the way the SR9c is designed and I like the holsters I had carefully chosen for it, since it is one of my main carry guns. The Micro promised to be more unobtrusive, lighter and would fit one of my Remora holsters that I use for this gun. I received it in the packaging you see above, opened the wrapping and within about a minute had it on the pistol.

It looks like an add-on, which it is. It's much smaller and less bulky than the CenterFire or Laserguard models. Which is good. Still, it initially looked kind of weird, hanging under the muzzle like that.

View of the Micro mounted to the SR9c from underneath.

Looked at from the bottom, it is not much larger than the slide and under-barrel body of the Ruger. Nice.

Installation was pretty bomb proof, even for me. Slide it on the rail, line up the hole in the laser mount with the notch in the rail, insert screw. Tighten. Done.

Switch Protection

In the photos above, I'm showing a really thoughtful feature that should be more advertised for this sight. I was concerned about activating the laser in my holster and imposing unnecessary battery drain. Looking closely at the laser body and fitting it in my holster revealed what I term a switch protection shield. These protrusions extend on both sides only enough to stop the activation switches from contacting the holster. A very nice touch.

On the gun.
The photos below show how the Micro looks close up, mounted on the pistol, ready to go.

It is barely wider than the frame, and from the top, you can't see it.

In operation it's pretty simple. When I draw the pistol my trigger finger is naturally laying extended down the side of the frame. The tip of that finger touches the activation switch on the right side (remember, it has a twin on the left side for left-hand shooters, or in case you might be forced to shoot with your non-dominant hand) and to turn the laser on takes only a brief press with that fingertip. Another press, and it turns off.

The laser offers pulsing or constant beam. I prefer constant, but the option is there should you want to switch.

Carrying the Micro-equipped pistol

One of my pet peeves with lasers is the fact that getting one after having a favorite gun, and going through the pain and expense of finding a couple of good, safe, comfortable carry holsters forces one to adapt one of those holsters, if possible, or buy at least one more holster. There are a number of good holster makers, Cleveland Holsters, for example, that make outstanding holsters for Micro equipped handguns. I've discovered that my "standard" non-laser Remora holster was easily modified to accept the Micro, by removing a short row of strategically placed stitches near the bottom of the holster. That's what I'm using to carry the SR9c when the laser is aboard. I sometimes remove it and carry the pistol in a favorite, leather OWB holster. It is easy enough to do. It would be easier, if LaserMax would develop a quick change mechanism similar to that found on road bicycle wheel mounts. 

I have grown used to the sight on the gun. As I said, it is small. Very small. Unobtrusive. Doesn't get in the way and these days, it is usually mounted to the Ruger because it's just too damn important to leave at home alone.

Check these out for more information on the LaserMax site: http://lasermax.com

Be safe.

A "Safer" Carry Gun?

A couple of posts back, I was analyzing the Bond Arms derringer models as potential self defense carry guns. Since then I've had a number of conversations about this topic, both in real time and on the internet via a couple of gun forums. And I've received a couple of news items involving self defense shootings that I think are relevant. But first, the gun forums.

Even though I moderate a small forum, and used to moderate a large one with over ten thousand registered members, I don't put a great deal of faith in what I read. Although some members are knowledgeable and helpful, and will even admit when they don't know about something, many more are willing to use the shield of the internet to jump in and comment, or pontificate, on topics they know little, and sometimes absolutely nothing, about. Derringers seem to bring this latter group out of the woodwork. They are similar to the same crowd that declares any caliber of pistol that doesn't begin with a "4" are worthless.

Now, back to the topic of derringers. Bond Arms derringers specifically. My previous post pretty much lays out the good and the bad for these little pistols, but to cut to the essence for their use as self defense carry guns, I have to say that the biggest negative that comes immediately to mind is their two shot capacity. Against this, it can be stated that most "self defense" situations that involve guns are those in which no shots are fired by anyone. Showing your firearm to a would-be assailant(s) is often enough to end the situation then and there. For other situations, I believe one or shots usually puts paid to the situation as well.

Of course, there are occasions when more than two shots are required even though these instances are infrequent. I have to comment here that when this happens it's not always because one is assaulted by more than two individuals who keep on coming even though the victim has fired three, four, five, six or more shots. In most instances, multiple shots are fired because the shooter can't hit what he or she is aiming at. Or isn't aiming in the first place. This means a number of bullets are flying around the scene, landing somewhere. A dangerous practice.

There are two ways to overcome this. Practice a lot. Practice defensive firing drills. Expend a lot of ammo getting proficient with your handgun. True, but seldom done. "It's too expensive." Yes, it is expensive. "I don't have the time." You can make time for something that important. "I don't have a regular place to shoot." And, that's because???....

The other way to deal with this is to use a close-range gun that will much more often hit the bad guy with enough force to end the situation in one shot with reduced chance of shots going astray. I'm not talking about carrying big caliber magnums. Shooting statistics don't support the big caliber theory anyway. I mean shooting something like a .410 shotgun shell loaded with 5 pellets of 000 buckshot. That will get anyone's attention and will more likely hit the intended target than a 9 mm hollow point, for example. And should one or two of those pellets sail on past, they will be rapidly losing velocity and offer a much greater chance of not killing someone or going through a wall, window or car door and into a person.

That is the main reason I am attracted to the Bond Arms derringers in .410/.45 long colt calibers. A two-shot hand-held shotgun seems like a pretty potent weapon in a self defense scenario.

One incident I learned about yesterday involved a gunfight near a Pizza restaurant. A 'civilian' getting out of his car, was confronted by an armed robber in another car who pointed a gun at him and demanded his money. The 'civilian', a legal concealed handgun carrier, drew his weapon and fired. The two men exchanged shots as the robber drove away. Neither person was hit, but bullets went into nearby building and windows. Fortunately, no one else was hit either

The second involved another attempted robbery of a man and his wife who were sitting in their car in broad daylight in a city street. The would-be robber pointed a 1911 .45 at the driver and demanded his money. The driver pulled a Bond Arms derringer and shot the robber once at six yards. The robber went down badly hurt. A bystander kicked the robber's gun away and the victim kept his gun, with the remaining .410 shell ready to fire, on the robber until the police arrived. The robber died. The man and his wife lived. No one else was hurt.


Of course, even so, should one be limited to two shots, it is necessary to have your reloading procedure down pat and be able to execute it in a hurry.

Or carry something like a Ruger LCP as a backup pocket gun, just in case.

I'm still awaiting my opportunity to put a Bond Arms derringer to the test - drawing, firing and reloading in an acceptable period before I would carry, or recommend them for self defense carry.

I'm still looking for that opportunity and when it comes, I'll report in detail here.

Stay safe.

Lasers - Pick your color, red or green

I was fortunate to be able to test two excellent lasers from LaserMax for the Ruger LC9 handgun. Traditionally, the common laser light color offered for handguns has been red. I believe it is less expensive to produce, and smaller in form factor. Green laser light units can be bought, but they are sometimes significantly more expensive than the red light units.

Now, LaserMax offers both red light and green light lasers in the CenterFire model. As you can see from the photographs below, the two units appear almost identical. The sharp eye will notice that the green model is slightly larger than the red, although I found that this is really undetectable when on the gun. They mount and remove the same way and operate exactly the same. The only significant difference is the color of the laser beam itself.

LaserMax Centerfire. The red beam laser is attached. The green beam laser is below.

CenterFire red.

A look at the innards of the 'red'.

Both share this attachment method at the trigger guard.

The green.

You can see the size difference. The red is on top, green below with it's larger laser.

Side by side.

I have read that the green laser beam is preferred in daylight as it is easier for the human eye to discern. Maybe, but try as I could, I saw no appreciable difference. I tried them in bright sunlight and overcast days, and they were both readily seen by my old eyes.

Now, there may be some truth in the claim that the human eye is more sensitive to green light than red. Perhaps going from bright light suddenly to dark or near dark would make a difference in the color detection. I do know that some people say they see green better under all circumstances and prefer that color. If that is you, then LaserMax now offers an affordable, nicely made green laser for your handgun. If you are running a red CenterFire, there should be no issue with swapping it for a green in mounting or operation. Or, better still, for your holster collection.

Check out the specifications at Lasermax.com