Reducing the Inventory. Reducing Complexity. Re-focusing

Ruger SR9c, Comp-Tac Minotaur AIWB, Kytex mag holder.

Bond Arms Snake Slayer, Remora holster,
BA Ammo holder with .410 Personal Defense Rounds

As with so many shooters, my personal inventory of weapons, accessories and holsters has grown far beyond what I need to be well equipped for personal defense.

I also have the proverbial box of holsters, except in my case, it is a large drawer full of holsters. As readers of this blog will note, I've tried and analyzed many holsters over the past months, reporting on what I see as their good and bad points relative to self defense carry. There are many different designs and executions of those designs. There are many ways to carry spare ammunition, a subject that really doesn't lend itself to debate - if you carry for self defense, then be adequately prepared with extra ammo. A gun with no ammo doesn't work. It looks like a gun, but it don't shoot. Case closed.

Laser sights. Night sights. Grips. Mag extenders, modifications (which I don't recommend in general) to the gun... There are many, many ways to spend money on more stuff for more guns.

But, I've come to the conclusion, what's the point? If you are interested in guns, shooting, target practice, and all of that, then fine. There is little limit to what you can spend your money and concentration on. But, if you are primarily interested in carrying a gun for self defense, and the legitimate defense of other innocent people who may need protection, all of the 'noise' of more stuff isn't going to do you much good for a couple of reasons.

One, it really doesn't matter if you have a leather or kydex holster, or mag carrier. It doesn't matter if you carry a Model 1911 .45, or a LCP .380. Strong side carry, cross draw, appendix and anywhere else - it's not all that important to the main goal of being prepared with your pistol for self defense situations. "No," someone is going to say, "you're wrong." Then comes one of the standard arguments: caliber (bigger is better vrs. accuracy trumps caliber), carry style (cross draw is too vulnerable to gun-grabs, and slow vrs. cross draw is better for driving and sitting), or (IWB is too uncomfortable and harder to get to, vrs. OWB less concealable and  harder to get to...)

And so on.

Two, if you have four different holsters, three different styles (IWB, OWB, SOB) and five different guns, you are setting yourself up for confusion, uncertainty and delay when, as the Marines so accurately put it, the shit hits the fan. Take the Bond Arms derringer and the Ruger SR9c for example. I had both of these guns - still have the Ruger - and can speak from experience. As the photos demonstrate above, carrying them in the same manner still presents significant differences and potential difficulties. It's easy enough when I'm just practicing moves like drawing from concealment, safety, presentation, reloading, but if that SHTF moment ever comes, I will be suddenly in full blown, adrenaline fueled, get-it-done-right-now mode. No luxury or time for consideration of what's in my waistband, or where, exactly, it's located.

If I'm carrying the Ruger with the manual safety on (I don't, but I don't recommend this practice to anyone. You have to make your own choices.), I have to click it off when I draw. If I'm carrying the derringer, the safety will be off, but I have to cock the hammer. It's a single action. (Which barrel will fire first? The bottom one for more accuracy and recoil control, if I've remembered to set the hammer accordingly.)

I can quickly squeeze off two, three or four shots (or more) with the Ruger with simple trigger presses. I have to re-cock the derringer with the thumb of my weak hand before I can shoot a second time. Third shot with the derringer? Well, first in the midst of all this fear, panic and craziness, I have to open the barrel latch, swing the barrels up and over, lock them there with my shooting hand thumb, strip out the two shotgun hulls, reach to my ammo carrier, lever up two shells so I can grab two together, bring them up to the gun, which I hope I've remembered to lock upright into my field of vision so I can also assess the situation while seeing the empty chambers, slide two shells into the barrels - all the way in - and close and lock the barrels into the frame. Oh, then I have to re-cock the hammer.

By then, I might be dead.

With the Ruger, once I've emptied the magazine, which will be eleven to eighteen rounds, depending, I have to push the mag release button, hold the gun into my field of view, slide a new magazine from the holder on my weak side, and slap it home and slap the slide back into battery.

Confusion. Mistakes. Too many options for a time that demands simplicity and clarity.

I am simplifying. The Snake Slayer, a fine handgun, is on the block. Someone will like it and find a good use for it. I don't spend much time afoot in snake country, although there are a few 'wild' dogs around here that would benefit from a face full of #4 shot. My holster collection is being reduced to a few that are simple, effective and concealable. I am carrying in only two locations on my body and none of my holsters are so comfortable that I 'forget I have it on'. That's pretty much BS anyway. Your conscious mind will become attuned to a good holster, but it doesn't forget where it is.

There are times and occasions when a good OWB holster works well and is appropriate, like a long day on your feet, walking, at the fair, around town. There are times when appendix carry is better, like in the car, or at the coffee shop or restaurant. Even walking around. My holster requirements have gone down by at least 50%.

The carry guns I depend on now, both Rugers - the SR9c and the LCP look and operate much the same way. Yes, I know that the LCP is hammer fired and the SR9c is striker fired, the triggers are very different, and the magazine capacities are very different. But, my hand and brain knows which is which when I put my hand on the gun and it knows how to achieve a self-defense sight alignment quickly (and when it's too close-quarters to worry about sight, or slide, alignment) with either. All I have to do then is press the trigger. Repeatedly, if necessary.

A couple of simple, effective and reasonably comfortable holsters for each pistol, one for AWIB, one for strong side carry. That's it.

If I need a separate mag carrier, I go with one from Kytex. I've reviewed them on this blog and I still recommend them. None better. With a gun in either carry position, the Kytex mag holder and spare mag is always in the same place. Don't have to worry about that.

Re-focusing
Finally, simplicity applied to self defense shooting itself.
The internet can be a good thing. Yes, there is a lot of crap flying around out there, especially regarding guns, self-defense, the Second Amendment and all, but I watched a couple of enlightening videos recently that I recommend to you. One was an interview by Rob Pincus with Lt. Col. Dave Grossman a literate, educated, soldier, former LEO and student of violence and combat, consultant and author of a Pulitzer nominated book on those topics. He was discussing the concept of the "sheepdog", the title of his new children's book. Now, I'd much earlier seen a video by Nut N Fancy, who is certainly opinionated and knowledgeable, but whose attitudes I don't always agree with. My understanding of 'sheepdog' then was that people who considered themselves to be that kind of person were arrogant and looked down on everyone else, who they, the sheepdogs, were out to protect. Whether the sheep liked it or not. An odious concept at best.

However, hearing Lt. Col. Grossman's explanation of the sheepdog cast a new light on this concept. There are people who rather than run from trouble, run toward it in order to deal with it. Fire fighters. Cops. Military. Teachers in 'bad' schools. Counselors. First responders. The 'average citizen' who rushes in to help or save. These are all sheepdogs and they don't look down on the people who are not. I believe anyone who elects to legally carry a gun for defense must consider themselves to have accepted the role, to some extent, of a sheepdog, if only for one's self and one's family. I believe the commitment goes much further and that, and it becomes a duty of protecting the innocent whenever that is truly necessary, whether through the use of a firearm, or jumping into a burning house trailer to rescue a trapped person. No one can make someone else be a sheepdog, but if you are carrying a gun for defense, you've already signed up.

I have to remark here that on a gun forum I used to moderate we had a few posters who declared that if they were ever in a place where a random shooter went active, their main and only responsibility was to get away to safety. Why, I asked, were the posters carrying a gun in the first place? I would wonder how a person could live with themselves if they had the possibility and means to stop such violence and they crawled out the nearest exit instead.

Re-focusing on the basics of shooting for defense. Obviously, when pushed to the point where there is no alternative but to shoot your weapon, one then is forced from the defensive to the offensive as a matter of survival. Offensive shooting with a handgun is not difficult. Anyone can learn the basics of drawing, presentation to the main target area and squeezing off rounds. You don't have to hit the bull's eye, or the 10 ring. You just have to put rounds into your target, which at normal self defense shooting distances of around 10 to 15 feet, is not difficult to do. If a normal person trains to do only this, that is all that is needed to be effective at self defense shooting.

And, accepting the fact that you are a sheepdog and you are able and committed to shooting the bad guy(s) if required.

Keep it simple. Restrict the number of your carry guns. Two, or three at the most. Make sure they are well maintained and you can shoot accurately enough to hit a man-sized target repeatedly and quickly. Carry in only one or two locations on your person. Avoid fancy or trick holsters. Keep it simple. No matter which caliber or calibers you choose, make sure you can shoot them accurately.

Where it is legal, always carry your gun.
Where it is legal, always carry your gun.
Where it is legal, always carry your gun.

The Bond Arms Snake Slayer Holster Report

As I mentioned earlier, I have been trying out my Bond Arms Snake Slayer derringer in various holsters for the puprose of determining, for me at least, which are most suitable for carrying this pistol concealed. I have used the following: Remora clipless (and modified with a kydex clip), the Bond Arms driving cross-draw, and the OWB belt clip holsters, and the D.M. Bullard OWB cross draw holster.

Bond Arms straight clip OWB holster

Bond Arms OWB clip

Bond Arms Driving Holster

Bond Arms Driving Holster thumb break strap

Remora (modified) with mag holder and kydex clip

This has been an excercise in expectations. Before embarking on this analysis, I had pretty well figured that the modified Remora and the Bond Arms driving holsters would come out on top. But, as with many assumptions and expectations, this did not prove out to be so. The short version - details to follow - is that, for me, the best concealed OWB carry holster is the D.M. Bullard cross draw. By a big margin. For IWB carry, the Remora with attached mag pouch, that I modified with a kydex clip and carry either appendix or cross draw, depending on the situation, works best. Strangely, though, I also have a D.M. Bullard IWB holster with belt loop for my SR9c which accommodates the Snake Slayer beautifully. I could also use this one as an IWB option, and sometimes do. Now to details.I found both of Bond Arms holsters to be extremely well made. Beautiful leather and craftsmanship. Nothing at all to complain about with either of them. What knocked them out of contention for me were design decisions, not quality of materials or workmanship. The OWB belt clip holster is plainly not suitable for conclealed carry if the retention strap is left on the holster. Although it is there to 'retain' the gun for OWB carry, it's really not needed for concealed carry, but instead is an additional, and unnecessary, impediment to a reasonably quick draw. If it was a thumb-break strap, then it might be more suitable, but as it is, you must unsnap the strap, then, hoping it doesn't get in between your hand and the grips, grasp the pistol for the draw. Frankly, one could use this holster without the strap and it would retain the pistol just fine, the fit is that good. Also, for concealed carry, this holster must be worn with a long cover garment because the holster rides so low on the belt. It is a fine holser for open carry though and I would recommend it for that without reservation.

The Driving (cross draw) Holster did not fare well as a general concealed carry rig for me. I was surprised at this. I've seen the videos and the photos and know this is an innovative and functional design. For sitting (including in a car, restaurant, at home, etc.) the design is very good, once properly broken in. However, when not sitting - standing, walking about, running, etc. - the holster did not work so well for me.

The Driving Holster had the longest and most difficult break in of the four. The fit was extremely tight. Not unexpected in a good leather holster, but certainly more tight than any other quality leather holster I've used. And I've used more than a few. After a few days of break in using the derringer tightly wrapped in a few layers of kitchen cling wrap, and many insertions and withdrawls from the holster, I got it to the point where it would grudgingly release. The thumb break strap also took a deal of flexing and snapping/unsnapping to attach without a struggle. Attaching the holster to my gun belt with the leather flap and velcro was easy enough, but it would not hold quite tightly enough, nor the end of the flap tuck under, or against, the holster, until the leather flap itself was sufficiently broken in to curl around the holster body and not spring away from it.

Once all that was in readiness, the thumb break and draw were easy enough to surrender to a firm pull, and the flap was attached securely to the belt and holster, I began working on the access and draw technique. The thumb break strap is attached so that it doesn't readily interfere with the draw. The holster securing-flap however, did not hold tightly enough to keep the holster from sliding along the belt until it fetched up against a belt loop and stopped, where I was then able to extract the pistol from the holster. After fooling with this for a while, I found the solution to be a combination of more break-in for the holster so the pistol did not fit so tightly but was on the verge of loose, a tightened belt (which I don't particularly like. It was tight enough to begin with.) and a tighter wrap of the leather flap around the belt, which can only be so tight because of the nature of the velcro securing patch. You can't pull it tighter like you could with a buckle, for example.

With the horizontal carry position, and the need to have a non-tight fit of the gun to the holster, a thumb break is essential, otherwise, the pistol will eventually, if not sooner, fall out of the holster. I don't worry about it discharging due to the rebounding hammer and the single-action design of the gun, but the Snake Slayer is no lightweight. If it lands on your foot, you will certainly know it. Not to mention, so will everyone else in the room.

My other objection to this holster for concealed carry is that it would, in my case at least, being tall and relatively slim, be restricted to times and places where I can wear a very loose shirt, or jacket, vest or some other concealment garment. Even with the horizontal, up front, orientation of this holster, I does not hide very well without a good cover. For me, light shirts and t-shirts are out.
My conclusion is that if one is primarily wanting a driving or sitting holster, the Bond Arms Driving holster will work fine, once properly broken in and used correctly. But for concealed carry, when one is moving around, sitting, standing, bending, and perhaps running, I don't think it is the best choice.
The modified Remora. I attached a black kydex clip where the mag pouch is sewn into the holster. This means it really does not move, which is an issue with Remora clipless holsters, regardless of what many reviews say. If you don't move around much, the cllpless versions are just fine. They basically stay generally where you put them, but, for me, they have moved around, swiveled, rotated and on occasion, depending on where I put them, began to work up and out of my waistband. I think the Remora with attached mag pouch is both a good idea, and, given the almost double surface area, makes for stable and extremely comfortable holsters. I just wanted the extra confidence of the clip, and this has worked out beautifully for me. One kydex belt clip. One chicago screw. One drilled hole. Shazam! An improvement to an already good holster.

The other positive thing about this rig, is that it perfectly fits the Snake Slayer and the mag pouch will hold three .410 shells flat, or you can get four in there in a diamond configuration, which doesn't add enough bulk to impact the concealability of the holster. The other good things are that this rig is inexpensive - under $30 - and can be worn cross draw or appendix carrry (my favorites) and is easily slipped on and off. I have this set up for my LCP as well.

Lastly, but in first place, is the D.M. Bullard OWB cross draw holster. Here are the good points: one of the best made leather holsters on the market today. Exact fit to the pistol to such a degree that it really required no break in. Really. I've had a number of Bullard holsters, and they all were excellent in fit, but they also required a small amount of break in. This one did not. Holds tight, but easy to draw. I'm not sure how this was accomplished, but I'm not complaining. Just the opposite.
The holster secures to the belt with a loop sewn on the back of the holster body and a forward-facing 'wing' of heavy leather for the second belt loop attachment. This serves to keep the holster close against the body and pulled in tightly to keep the butt of the gun from swinging outward. The nice thing about this design is that it does not require another layer of 'reinforcing' leather to be sewn around the holster mouth. It is just not needed. When I wear this one just forward of my hip bone, it tucks right in and disappears under almost any kind of shirt. When I am going into the 'city', I often throw on a light leather western vest over my shirt and that really makes the holster and Snake Slayer disappear.

I have often worn this setup around the house all day under a light sweater or long sleeve t-shirt and not only do others not know it is there, I sometimes am unaware of it as well.
I generally prefer OWB carry when I can and I can say without reservation, that the Bullard cross draw holster is the best I have found for this. It gets high marks in all of the categories:

• Quality
• Comfort
• Concealment
• Retention
• Fit
• Situational - doesn't matter what the situation, sitting, standing, moving about, running, etc. it performs equally well.

Holsters are very much a personal preference item. They are necessary, but all people don't like the same things. I've attemped to point out the various attributes, both positive and negative, of these four holsters in the hopes that this may help you in your choice of what works best for you.

Posted with Blogsy

Christmas Present from Texas

Well, not exactly a Christmas present, seeing as how I bought it for myself. A present to me, from me. It is a new D.M. Bullard IWB with Belt Loop for my trusty Ruger SR9c.

I've been carrying one of Dave Bullard's Belt Slide OWB holsters for my Ruger since I bought the gun. It's been through a lot and shows it, like a good leather holster will, but is still my OWB go-to holster for the SR9c. The design is such that I have also used it successfully to holster an LC9 and a Bond Arms Snake Slayer. Those were temporary solutions to a pressing need, but now it's reserved for the SR9c, as it should be.

Today I received the IWB from Dave Bullard's shop. Even though I know they have been working very hard to keep up with demand, hiring and training new people (not an easy thing when Dave's quality and craftsmanship standards are so high) and moving to a larger space to accommodate the increased work demands, the quality of my new IWB has not been compromised by all that.



It is not a good practice to say much about a holster when it is brand new. I've often found my initial enthusiasm to be misplaced because issues and irritations I had not considered come to light with actually using a holster day-to-day as they are intended to be used. But, in this case, I will say this: the fit to the pistol is right on and it's not so tight that it will take a week of break in before it is ready for duty. And, it's comfortable, right out of the box. The back of the leather is almost flat, with some moulding to the pistol shape, but not aggressively so. The 'sweat' guard (I'd call it a slide guard) cushions my delicate abdomen from the slide, yet the grips ride high enough for a good, quick grip on the draw.

I bought the version with the belt loop attachment rather than the metal clip. I don't like metal clips even though they are thinner than leather. I don't like the way the end sticks out. I know why it does that, to help you get the clip over the belt, but I've had issues with these kinds of clips before, snagging an overgarment when I lift it to uncover the pistol for the draw. The belt loop is not as thick as my belt, to put it into perspective. And, it is adjustable in cant so you can wear the holster pretty much where you like. I like the flexibility to wear my concealed firearm in different positions, depending on the situation. This one will move easily to the cross draw position when I am driving or sitting for long periods. Or I can swing it around to a strong side carry if I like.

I'll post more as time goes on about how this latest acquisition from D.M. Bullard is working out. But, since I've given many holsters the field test and I have thought long and hard about what is best for me, I think this one will become my main IWB holster, like Bullard's belt slide has become my favorite OWB holster.

Dave Bullard's website

Snake Slayers, Holsters (modified and stock) and Reloads

The shot shell holder for my Snake Slayer arrived. Mine is the one on the top right. It slides over my belt and the fit is very snug so it doesn't move around. Which is good.

Bond Arms Slide Shell Holder

What is not so good is the fact that the shot shells, especially the Winchester 3" 000 buck, are slick and tend to slide up and down in the loops when you wear it in front, which I do for concealed carry. In fact, I mostly wear a pistol in the appendix position for concealed carry, this giving the best concealment, comfort and access while either sitting or standing. When the shell slide is worn in the 10 to 11 o'clock position, the normal daily movement of walking, sitting, standing, etc. will tend to push the shot shells down at different depths. In order to reliably get two of them out for a quick reload, you have to train to push two up from underneath then grab them from the top. Slows things down a little.

The other factor with a belt slide holder like this is where to carry it for concealed carry. If you are carrying the pistol at the appendix or strong side positions, then it should obviously go on the weak hand side for quick reload access. However, if you are carrying the pistol at the cross draw position, that recommended by Bond Arms for their Driving Holster, the belt slide holder has to go somewhere else. If it goes on the right side (assuming you are a right hand shooter), it's going to be awkward to access, especially if belted into your car seat. There is not enough room to carry the cross draw holster and the belt carrier on the same side. So, the alternative is to either have another gun available as a back up to go to if you have to fire more than two shots, or to stash spare shot shells in your shirt pocket or somewhere else handy in your car.

The Bond Arms Driving Holster is a solid, extremely well made leather holster built to exactly fit your Bond Arms derringer. I've seen a lot of holsters and this one is right up there with the best quality wise. In fact, it fits the derringer so precisely, that a rigorous break in period is necessary for it to perform as intended. This is not particularly easy, but it's necessary if you want the holster to perform as designed. Even though break-in can be a long process, it is in the nature of a well designed and executed leather holster. It's just part of the territory.

I use a few wraps of kitchen plastic wrap around the gun and force it into the holster. I let it sit for a while, then remove it and repeat the process. I also leave the wrapped gun in the holster over night. Working the leather around the thumb break and where it curls over the top to attach to the velcro is important for a close and sung fit. The thumb break is necessary due to the way the driving holster rides - horizontally. You want the gun to stay in the holster after it's broken in, so a thumb break is necessary for this configuration.

If the holster isn't totally broken in, when you go to release and draw the pistol, the tight fit will pull the entire rig - holster and gun - along the belt until it hits a belt loop and stops.

The Bond Arms Driving Holster - new and tight.

A black model shown in the driving, cross draw, position.

 Once properly broken in, this is a good driving (or extended sitting) holster. I can recall some excruciating meetings when I wished I'd had such a rig.... Anyway, given that the holster and gun can be easily donned and removed while in the seat, this is a good answer to the question of where to carry while sitting for ease of access. For concealed carry, it's another story.

One thing that doesn't get mentioned frequently about concealed carry is the fact the person's build has upon where and how to carry. Small skinny people have different carry requirements than big fat people. And there are those folks who fall somewhere within that spectrum. If you are a big person with a overly large gut, it's going to be much easier to conceal a handgun placed somewhere around the waistline, especially at the appendix or cross draw positions. If you are, say, tall and thin, it just gets harder.

I'm about 6' 3" and 200 pounds and while I don't have a flat, muscular stomach, I don't have a gut either, so concealing a gun of any appreciable size under a T-shirt - my favorite warm weather shirt - is not particularly easy. With the right holsters and placement, it can be done. The Bond Arms Driving Holster is not one of those rigs that lends itself to concealed carry in the warm weather for me. With my build, there is no way that setup is not going to print to a large degree. Under a loose shirt, like a flannel shirt, or perhaps a tropical print shirt or a light jacket, sure, it's going to work, but in the main, unless I can wear a pretty loose cover garment, the Driving Holster is not a good conceal carry rig for me.

The only other option I have been able to come up with is a hybrid type holster, modified by me. I took an appropriately sized IWB Remora no-clip holster with a mag pouch attached, drilled a hole between the mag pouch and the holster and attached a nice, simple kydex belt clip. The clip keeps the holster from going anywhere - sideways or up or down - and the mag pouch easily accommodate three extra .410 rounds. I padded the bottom of the mag pouch with dense foam to keep the .410 rounds at the proper height for an easy finger grab. I wish the mag pouch had been a trifle wider though. I can fit four .410 shells into the pouch, but it won't stay flat. It conceals better when it is flat.

Remora no-clip holster modified with a kydex belt clip for the Bond Arms Snake Slayer and .410 reloads.

I can carry this at the appendix or cross draw positions. When I get in the car, or someplace  where I may be sitting for along while, I unclip and slide it to the cross draw position. Or, vice versa when I like it in appendix carry position.

Gary Bond was kind enough to also send me his belt clip holster with retention strap for my Snake Slayer. It too is a quality holster and just the thing for carrying the derringer either when you can wear a coat or want to open carry. The retention strap is not so good for a concealed carry holster as it slows down the draw though.

I contacted the D.M. Bullard folks and they are sending out one of their cross draw holsters for the Bond Arms Snake Slayer. Their leather work is second to none, and David makes holsters to his own design and styles, which are well thought out and functional. Bullard's cross draw holster is an OWB with a 'negative' cant and two anchor points for the belt. Being familiar with the design, I suspect it will offer quick access while seated and also better concealment for my body type than the Driving Holster. I'll report on it after I've had a chance to break it in and carry for a while.

Reloads: This is the main issue with carrying a two shot primary self defense weapon. As I have written before, there is a matter of trade-offs and risk evaluation with a two shot weapon. Obviously, the need to quickly reload is paramount, but this may be balanced by the fact that both of those shots are going to be more powerful and effective, and probably more accurate, than the normal carry gun can produce.

I have not had the opportunity to run a set of live fire drills emphasizing reloading speed and efficiency yet. I have done a number of dry fire drills though, enough to know that this is one area where the shooter has to be proficient and fast. It is going to come down to being able to go into full "automatic" mode to open the barrels, swipe out the spent shells, lock the barrels down with the shooting hand's thumb while snatching two shells from your carrier or pocket and fully slotting them into the barrels.  Sometimes the ejectors are extended enough to inhibit a clean slot. Then snapping the barrels closed and cocking the hammer.

I have not practiced this enough to decide whether I am fast and reliable enough to depend upon it.

The Hammer: This is the last bit of not so good news. This is a single action pistol. Something to remember in these days of semi-autos and double-action revolvers. And, more importantly, with the derringer design, coupled with a strong hammer spring, it's not all that easy to cock. The smaller, curved grip doesn't provide as much leverage as a full length pistol grip does. For someone with small and weaker hands, it's going to be extremely hard to cock with only the shooting hand's thumb. A technique for cocking the pistol with the non-shooting hand as it comes out of the holster is absolutely necessary for those people, and a damn good idea for everyone.

More to remember.

So, the Bond Arms derringers are different guns that require a different approach and technique if they are to be used as a primary concealed carry weapon. The two main differences are the need to develop a fast reload procedure and a reliable easier to use cocking system.

Bond Arms Snake Slayer, first impressions

Bond Arms Snake Slayer
with Winchester PDX1 .410 ammo

It's big. It's stainless. It's heavy and it's made in the USA, Texas, specifically. Those were the first impressions.

Mine is the newer model with the improved trigger and broader hammer spur. It has the new style grips as well, with "checkering" in the form of snake scales and a carving of a mean looking rattler on them. They are somewhat larger in swell and sweep, giving a good, solid grip.

I have to say that in the hand, this pistol looks intimidating, especially if one is looking down those .45 caliber barrels.

I find the trigger to be crisp and positive, with sufficient pull as befits a concealed carry gun, but not at all heavy. I suspect the instances I have read in which people, usually internet posters (take that for what it's worth) complain about the heavy trigger. As far as I can tell, the trigger has always been fine. It's not the same kind of trigger as one finds on semi-autos, for example, because it swings back and down in a short arc. If the shooter keeps his or her hand from jamming underneath the cocked hammer and puts their finger properly on the trigger, it's just fine. Trigger problems are self-induced for the most part.

One aspect some people will have to get used to is the force and leverage necessary to cock the gun. If one has a proper shooting grip, cocking with the thumb of the shooting hand is not particularly easy. If the thumb is placed more forward on the hammer spur, greater leverage is gained, and it becomes easier. Still very firm, but it can be cocked this way. If a person has strong hands and grip, of course, it becomes easier. For many people though, women especially, cocking the pistol should be done and practiced differently. I suggest two methods that work well for concealed carry if one-hand cocking is an issue.

One: When drawing from concealment, the off hand will be used to pull the covering garment away for the draw. As the pistol comes out of the holster and starts toward the presentation position, use the off side hand, which will be right next to the gun at this point anyway, to fan the hammer back to the cocked position as the off hand hand rotates to assume the support position. If it is necessary to fire quickly, with one hand right after the gun leaves the holster, using the off hand to cock the weapon will have it instantly ready to fire, with the added advantage that the off hand will not be in front of the muzzle.

Two: Draw, present the gun in a two hand stance, then cock the hammer with the off hand's thumb. Very easy and quick, and the advantage that you can wait, if necessary, before putting the gun into "battery", or in this case, cocked and unlocked.

I have a .410 belt shell holder on order from Bond Arms, and Gordon Bond has offered to supply a holster or two for evaluation for concealed carry purposes. I'm looking into the D.M. Bullard cross draw holster for sitting and driving, and possibly an IWB from them as well, but I haven't heard back from Bullard.

Today is a trip to the "city" for errands, so I'll be toting the Snake Slayer as the main and the LCP as a BUG.

The testing goes on.

The Bond Arms Snake Slayer

After more thought and research into Bond Arms, I decided to purchase a Snake Slayer and give it a thorough testing as my primary carry gun.

Now, being that I also own and carry 9 mm and .380 semi-automatic pistols, why would I look to make a change to a two shot, single action derringer? Some explanation of my reasoning is in order.

First, I think there are two main theories, or schools of thought, regarding how an average citizen can approach how, what and when to carry a concealed weapon. The how and the when questions are easily answered:

How

• a method that is comfortable, so the pistol will be readily accessible given the fact that the gun will be under some kind of covering garment, 
• secure so there is no danger of the gun becoming accidentally dislodged from the holster and is secure from an unexpected grab or discovery,
• safe, so that the trigger is always covered to protect against negligent discharge,
• keep it concealed. 

When

• at all times where legally permissible. This requires that you know the law in the state where you are carrying. For example, I live about an hour's drive from another state, which I visit frequently. My carry permit is valid in both states, but the laws are somewhat different. In one, for example, I must be aware of which restaurants are compliant with the carry laws - in essence, an establishment must derive the majority of their income from food, not liquor. I wouldn't carry in a bar. Period. In one state, if the merchant posts a "No Guns" sign, the only force of law is regarding trespass. If an employee or manager knows you are carrying he or she can ask you to leave. That's it. If you don't, you could be charged with trespass.

What

This is usually where the controversy comes in, where gallons of ink (virtual and real) get spilled, tempers sometimes rise and some members have been banned from internet gun forums for letting their passion overrule their reason. As my old Company Commander in boot camp said, "Opinions are like ****, everyone has one."

In brief (and I'm not trying to cover all of the arguments, just a few of the main ones) the arguments run like this: 

Carry as big a gun as you can handle. 

This seems to be based on the old "stopping power" idea, being that one needs a large caliber, big bullet traveling at a high velocity to "stop" a man-sized, meth-crazed, 250 lb. biker assailant. Good luck with that. I don't know about you, but I have never even seen a meth-crazed, 250 lb biker and if I were attacked by one, I doubt that pistol "stopping power" would do much immediate good.

This notion of "stopping power" probably derived from tales coming out of WWI in the Pacific. While it is true that a 1911 .45 semi auto might drop a 100 pound, weak, starving, disease riddled Japanese soldier with one shot, a .22 would probably have worked about as well. The stories I heard while in the service in the 1960s about the "crazed" (insert an Asian enemy here) being shot six times with a .38 then slicing off the shooter's head with a samurai sword/machete/bayonet before collapsing is mostly b.s. Sounded good at the time though.

Modern ballistic studies, as well as studies based on actual law enforcement shootings, disprove this idea. Many assailants have been shot with many bullets of various calibers, including large ones beginning with a "4", and remained active and dangerous for some time.

One major problem with a big caliber gun firing large bullets at high velocities is their tendency to punch through a human torso, arm, leg, hand, neck, etc. and slam into something else. Like, through a sheet rock wall or door, or two. A car door, window, building. An innocent person who just happened to be in the vicinity. Missing your target with one of these big guns is bad. Who knows where those stray .44/.45/.357 rounds are going to end up when you miss?

The other problem with the "big as you can handle" gun is just carrying it. From my reading, and the people I know who have big pistols, most of them don't carry those guns regularly. They are too big and too heavy to strap on and carry all day, everywhere. And, if you have a carry permit and don't carry, what's the point? I've had people say to me, "I only carry when I'm going to need it." "I didn't know you could see into the future," I say. 

An average loaded model, 1911 .45 weighs about 45 oz. or 2.8 pounds. Think about carrying around half of a five pound sack of sugar attached to your belt. Make that three pounds with the holster, and a little more with a spare loaded magazine. Even so, you still get comments on the gun forums like, "The 1911 does weigh a little more, but it is a better gun in every other way. No one would ever or has ever disputed that." Not.

Even a more "modern" pistol, like a Glock 21 weighs 40 oz. loaded. That's 2.5 pounds. No big savings over a 1911.

I often wonder, really, how many of those Glock owners actually carry those guns regularly.

(There must be a reason why small, compact, lightweight guns like the Ruger LCP are so wildly popular...)

Shot placement

This old saw pops up with alarming regularity on the gun forums. (Again, a word of caution about gun forums. They are like men's gossip groups. There is a disproportionately large population of self-styled gun experts who post regularly in some forums but are basically opinionated jerks with little practical or actual knowledge of the subjects they pontificate on. Don't rely on gun forums to provide accurate, real and unbiased information. While there are knowledgeable, helpful people out there, it's very difficult to tell the phonies from the real ones, especially for those new to guns and self defense carry.)

The idea behind shot placement is that any caliber is effective when one shoots accurately and at a vital "stopping" area. There are more than a few things wrong with this notion. First, for 98% of the people who shoot hand guns, shooting with repeatable accuracy is not possible. Even then, the accurate and consistently good shots do their shooting on a range, at a target using techniques that have no bearing in a charged, adrenaline-fueled, self-defense shooting episode. Good sight picture. Steady trigger squeeze. Breath control. Steady hands. All of this goes out the window when someone threatens to take your life. Thinking that the average person who carries for self defense, who seldom gets to the shooting range and even more rarely practices rudimentary self defense shooting drills will be able to put his or her shots accurately on a vital target area when fighting for their lives is ludicrous. Remember that the next time your read or hear some fool promoting shot placement. 

The other fallacy behind shot placement is the idea that there are "vital stopping areas" that will drop an assailant dead in their tracks. Works pretty good on TV shows like "Justified", but in the real world, leaving aside the question of actually hitting one of those areas, who knows where and what they may be, or where to aim to get to them? Theoretically, maybe, but practically? There are documented cases of bad guys being shot in the head (surely, common gun wisdom knows this is a vital stopping area) who don't go down, but keep on shooting.

A caveat regarding laser sights
I have to note that the acceptance and use of laser sights on handguns has a direct, and positive bearing on the notion of shot placement. Many respected authorities on handguns and self defense, such as Jeff Quinn of Gunblast.com, recognize the usefulness of laser sights for the average shooter. In short, lasers make one a better shooter. Not just at night or in places of diminished light, but across the board. While it is true that an accomplished and practiced marksman or markswoman can shoot as well, perhaps better, than you or I using a laser sight, you and I will never be shooting at that level. Not unless we have the time, money and inclination to train hard enough to be a master. Most of us don't. So, it can only help with most guns like the semi-autos and revolvers being carried for self defense to buy and use a laser to improve one's marksmanship. It is also a safer thing to do for the general public. We need all of the help we can get to be sure to hit only our intended target. I have reviewed a number of lasers in this blog. I like the LaserMax variety. If you are interested, read my reviews, and others', and decide for yourself.

Carry plenty of rounds

Most modern semi-autos carry more than enough rounds for self protection. Many carry more than necessary. I have a Ruger SR9c with a seventeen round magazine. With one in the chamber, that's eighteen shots. Now, I can imagine a scenario in which I might need eighteen shots, but the odds of that actually happening are remote, to say the least. Yes, people will cite instances in which a self defense shooter needed a large number of rounds, but the odds of that happening are very slim. 

The unstated assumption behind carry plenty of rounds is that one could easily be in a situation where there are a number of assailants or it takes multiple (like four, five, six, or more) shots to stop the threat. But, if one does enough digging through reported self defense incidents that involve the person being threatened resorting to a gun you'll find that a very large number of these incidents never involve a shot being fired. The potential assailants flee at the sight of their intended victim drawing a gun. Of those in which the potential victim does fire, it usually involves only one or two rounds before the threat is stopped. The bad guys run away, sometimes uninjured, sometimes ending up at a hospital where they are usually arrested. Sometimes they are killed.

Often when multiple shots are fired, only a few find their target. The rest find unintended targets, thankfully most of them in an inert object. But not always.

The question becomes, how many rounds are enough? This is, of course, an unanswerable question. As I leaned in project management school, the real answer is "it depends."

And so we come to what I think are the real questions. Why do I legally carry a gun for self defense? And, what does that actually mean, and what am I willing to do, and not do, because of that? And, given the answers to those, what, when and how should I carry?

I carry because bad people also carry guns (and knives, and clubs, and chains, and some are much bigger, younger, and meaner than me) and until they don't, I refuse to be a victim who can't fight back.

I carry because I feel a responsibility to my family and my fellow citizens. I'm no cop, but I am a citizen and believe it is my responsibility to protect the lives of innocent people when there is no other choice.

Carrying a gun for self defense means that I am capable of using it effectively, and I will use it without hesitation if forced to do so in defense of my life or that of others. This also means I am prepared to be injured or killed in so doing.

I am not willing to risk the lives of, or injury to innocent people by firing my weapon in a manner that may do so. I must have a clear shot, even if it means exposing myself in order to shoot safely in a violent, self-defense situation.

I will choose and use a weapon that is, as much as possible, consistent with the above. 

It seems to me that many people choose their handguns with the idea that they are good shots, can hit their targets regardless of circumstance, that they require a larger and more powerful weapon that will carry enough ammunition to stand off an assault by a crowd of assailants.

I don't subscribe to those ideas. My thinking has changed to this. I want a small, reliable gun that I can carry comfortably, all the time; that is powerful enough to quickly stop an attacker, but not so much that it is a danger to others nearby; that I can shoot accurately enough at close range but its effectiveness (lethality) falls off quickly beyond that distance. At this point, my thinking is that a small, hand-held shotgun is one answer to these requirements.

Those are my reasons for choosing a Bond Arms derringer as my primary carry weapon. Firing a .410 shot shell with large diameter shot, such as 000 or 00 buckshot, or perhaps the self defense rounds that use a combination of three or four disks and BB pellets, the little gun should be very effective at short range, even with not-so-good shot placement, and will be less of a danger to others.

Two shots should be enough for the vast majority of situations I might encounter. If not, I will have the option to reload, or to resort to a small backup gun.

The Bond Arms derringer should be very reliable. It is a single action pistol with little to go wrong. No springs, slides, or revolving parts. It is designed with built in safeties using both the single action cocking and rebounding hammer.

It is small enough to carry, but large enough to do what it is meant to do.

So.... I have a Bond Arms Snake Slayer on order. Perhaps it will arrive this week. I'm putting my money where my opinion is so I can test out my theories and this innovative firearm. I will be looking at how it shoots, how it conceals, how it carries from day to day. I will be testing its reliability and use factor - how easy is it to draw from concealment, cock and fire? What kind of ammunition and shot patterns work best in self defense situations. How is the best way to carry spare rounds and reload quickly. And, anything else that occurs I think you'd want to know about.

I will report back here after I get my Snake Slayer and begin to apply some reality testing to it.

A "Safer" Carry Gun?

A couple of posts back, I was analyzing the Bond Arms derringer models as potential self defense carry guns. Since then I've had a number of conversations about this topic, both in real time and on the internet via a couple of gun forums. And I've received a couple of news items involving self defense shootings that I think are relevant. But first, the gun forums.

Even though I moderate a small forum, and used to moderate a large one with over ten thousand registered members, I don't put a great deal of faith in what I read. Although some members are knowledgeable and helpful, and will even admit when they don't know about something, many more are willing to use the shield of the internet to jump in and comment, or pontificate, on topics they know little, and sometimes absolutely nothing, about. Derringers seem to bring this latter group out of the woodwork. They are similar to the same crowd that declares any caliber of pistol that doesn't begin with a "4" are worthless.

Now, back to the topic of derringers. Bond Arms derringers specifically. My previous post pretty much lays out the good and the bad for these little pistols, but to cut to the essence for their use as self defense carry guns, I have to say that the biggest negative that comes immediately to mind is their two shot capacity. Against this, it can be stated that most "self defense" situations that involve guns are those in which no shots are fired by anyone. Showing your firearm to a would-be assailant(s) is often enough to end the situation then and there. For other situations, I believe one or shots usually puts paid to the situation as well.

Of course, there are occasions when more than two shots are required even though these instances are infrequent. I have to comment here that when this happens it's not always because one is assaulted by more than two individuals who keep on coming even though the victim has fired three, four, five, six or more shots. In most instances, multiple shots are fired because the shooter can't hit what he or she is aiming at. Or isn't aiming in the first place. This means a number of bullets are flying around the scene, landing somewhere. A dangerous practice.

There are two ways to overcome this. Practice a lot. Practice defensive firing drills. Expend a lot of ammo getting proficient with your handgun. True, but seldom done. "It's too expensive." Yes, it is expensive. "I don't have the time." You can make time for something that important. "I don't have a regular place to shoot." And, that's because???....

The other way to deal with this is to use a close-range gun that will much more often hit the bad guy with enough force to end the situation in one shot with reduced chance of shots going astray. I'm not talking about carrying big caliber magnums. Shooting statistics don't support the big caliber theory anyway. I mean shooting something like a .410 shotgun shell loaded with 5 pellets of 000 buckshot. That will get anyone's attention and will more likely hit the intended target than a 9 mm hollow point, for example. And should one or two of those pellets sail on past, they will be rapidly losing velocity and offer a much greater chance of not killing someone or going through a wall, window or car door and into a person.

That is the main reason I am attracted to the Bond Arms derringers in .410/.45 long colt calibers. A two-shot hand-held shotgun seems like a pretty potent weapon in a self defense scenario.

One incident I learned about yesterday involved a gunfight near a Pizza restaurant. A 'civilian' getting out of his car, was confronted by an armed robber in another car who pointed a gun at him and demanded his money. The 'civilian', a legal concealed handgun carrier, drew his weapon and fired. The two men exchanged shots as the robber drove away. Neither person was hit, but bullets went into nearby building and windows. Fortunately, no one else was hit either

The second involved another attempted robbery of a man and his wife who were sitting in their car in broad daylight in a city street. The would-be robber pointed a 1911 .45 at the driver and demanded his money. The driver pulled a Bond Arms derringer and shot the robber once at six yards. The robber went down badly hurt. A bystander kicked the robber's gun away and the victim kept his gun, with the remaining .410 shell ready to fire, on the robber until the police arrived. The robber died. The man and his wife lived. No one else was hurt.


Of course, even so, should one be limited to two shots, it is necessary to have your reloading procedure down pat and be able to execute it in a hurry.

Or carry something like a Ruger LCP as a backup pocket gun, just in case.

I'm still awaiting my opportunity to put a Bond Arms derringer to the test - drawing, firing and reloading in an acceptable period before I would carry, or recommend them for self defense carry.

I'm still looking for that opportunity and when it comes, I'll report in detail here.

Stay safe.

The Two-Shot Question

Bond Arms Snake Slayer IV

Bond Arms Texas Defender

Bond Arms Mini .45

I had heard of Bond Arms but, until recently, I knew little about the company or the handguns they make. I saw that D.M. Bullard makes holsters for them and the photographs on his site, with a Bond Arms derringer holstered in various holsters made me curious. Then, recently, I got involved in the question of what to carry while at home.

Given that bad situations can develop very quickly, I have always considered it good practice to carry something at home on the theory that a rapid response is better than having to run into another room for a gun. The rub comes in with deciding which gun is the best all around home carry self defense weapon. I've opted for small and light. After all, you'll be wearing the thing around all day. This has meant, up until now, the Ruger LCP. It is certainly small and light. It's also in .380 caliber. I've accepted the fact that a modern self-defense load, like the Hornady Critical Defense hollowpoint load in .380 will be effective enough under most conditions. But two factors have moved me to reconsider.

First, is the onset of winter. I live in a small town at over 7000 feet altitude. It gets cold. Most people are wearing heavy coats and often layers during the fall, winter and early spring months. There is some question in my mind about the penetration characteristics of a .380 hollow point round fired into three or five layers of heavy clothing.

Second, is the unpleasant fact that small semi-automatics are not the most jam-free pistols in the world. There is always the small, but disconcerting, chance that you can pull the trigger and it won't go "bang". The problem is that you can shoot a lot of rounds at the range, but you really don't know if the next time you pull the trigger the gun will shoot. That is just an inherent factor with semi-automatics. Some are undoubtedly better than others in this respect, but given the nature of the beast - hammer fired or striker fired, slide, springs, loading ramp, the cartridge and bullet shapes,... you just can't be 100% certain. This is one reason why revolvers are still popular, besides their obvious cool factor.

But, although it is very unlikely, revolvers can also fail to function at that critical time. Poor maintenance. An actual mechanical failure with the cylinder or trigger or hammer. It's possible to prevent a revolver from firing by grabbing the cylinder so it will not turn and index when the trigger is pulled, just as it is possible to 'jam' a semi-auto by grabbing the slide and forcing the gun to go out of battery.

Now, enter the single action, multiple-barrel, non-revolving handgun. The classic design for this kind of weapon was the creation of Henry Deringer. His model, now dubbed the "Derringer" overcomes those potential limitations, as discussed above, with a simple, single-action, hammer fired design with no extra moving parts. The hammer, trigger and firing pins. That's it. But, as with anything, there is a catch.

Having no other moving parts like cylinders or slides, the derringer is limited to the number of rounds it can fire without reloading. In this case, two.

But, there is a flip side to this as well. Those two rounds can be very powerful and effective if the design of the gun is made strong enough and well enough to handle powerful loads.

Back in 1995, Greg Bond began Bond Arms with the express intent of making the better derringer design pistol. Today, Bond Arms is known as the only company to produce and sell an all-American made derringer pistol that is built to be a precision handgun that will shoot large and powerful loads and not unduly punish the shooter. Today the company is owned and run by Greg's brother, Gordon.

I don't have a Bond Arms pistol, nor have I ever shot one, but when my thinking turned to what might be the best around the home carry weapon, without the potential limitations of a small semi-auto or revolver, the Bond Arms pistols moved quickly to the top of the consideration pile.

After a few hours research I have come to some preliminary conclusions. Be advised though, that plowing through the internet sites to weed out objective and accurate information is a chore. The Bond Arms site is very useful for a good introduction to their guns, with facts, figures and statistics backed up with photographs and input from other sources. They provide links to articles and reviews by others so that you can get a more widespread look at what others think. Going afield of this, looking through the results of various Google searches also turns up some of the gun whacko's out there. As you might suspect, gun forums are a very mixed bag. Having moderated a couple I know this from long experience. One example is a forum, that will remain unnamed, in which I found a long, multi-page thread of discussions about the Bond Arms pistols. Many of the posters there had obviously never seen, held or shot a Bond Arms gun, but they were free with advice, advice that bore no relation to reality whatsoever.

So, at this point I can make a few observations. I'm still researching and learning about Bond Arms, especially from the perspective of using one of them as a carry gun around the house, and maybe in general.

The Bond Arms double-barrel pistol reflects Henry Deringer's timeless design, but, really, the resemblance ends there. The modern Bond Arms pistol is a heavyweight, precision American made hunk of steel. Where the older derringer design had various shortcomings and inherent safety problems, the modern Bond Arms design has eliminated these and incorporated state-of-the art safety features as well. Where the older derringer designs allowed the hammer to rest adjacent to the firing pins, which could cause an unintentional discharge if the gun was dropped while loaded, the Bond Arms design uses a rebound locking hammer. According to the Bond Arms manual:

Think of the rebounding hammer as an automatic half cock. The hammer automatically rebounds to a
blocked position off of the firing pins. This allows for safer reloading compared to other derringers. The rebounding hammer is an exclusive patented feature for the Bond derringers.

In a conversation I had with Gordon Bond, he related that some Bond Arms owners, when ordering new grips, reported that they had accidentally dropped their pistols and none had fired as a result. This is undoubtedly due to the rebounding hammer.

The Bond Arms pistols also incorporate a sliding "cross bolt safety" mechanism which renders the hammer incapable of striking the firing pins if the trigger is pulled on a cocked pistol with the safety engaged. Interestingly, the safety can be easily moved to the "off safe" position while holding the pistol in one hand. Nice, for self defense use.

Another feature I like, although it is not strictly a safety feature, is the spring-loaded, thumb operated barrel release mechanism. Once can quickly and easily unlock the barrels for reloading with a short movement of the shooter's right thumb. This is a one-handed operation for right hand shooters, and an additional step for lefties.

A word about the trigger. Do not be concerned with the occasional internet forum post that claims the trigger pull is extremely difficult. Aside from the fact that many internet posts are made by people with little or no knowledge of what they are talking about, a quick look at the Bond Arms manual will give you all the information you need concerning the trigger. One, due to the design of the derringer itself, the trigger easily actuates with a more downward pull than, say a semi-auto or revolver. Also, putting any pressure on the cocked hammer with the shooting hand will dramatically increase the pressure necessary to pull the trigger. I suspect that most people who report heavy trigger pull do not own a Bond Arms pistol, have not read the manual and don't realize they are creating their own problem.

The Bond Arms pistols appear to be dead-reliable. Once loaded and locked up, just pull back the hammer and pull the trigger and one of the two barrels goes "boom!". Repeat, and the other one fires. No worries about slides, safeties or cylinders doing their thing correctly.

The Bond Arms pistols shoot some heavyweight self-defense loads - .410 buckshot, .45 long colt, .45 ACP, .38 special +P, .357 Magnum, 9mm, etc. Much more potent than my .380 hollow point rounds.

And, seeing that you can get other barrel sets in many different calibers that will fit any Bond Arms frame, you can have essentially a number of different guns that all feel the same and shoot the same for very little money.

Of course, the down side is the two-round limitation. But, for self defense, it's only a limitation if you need more than two shots, and you can't reload in a hurry. As for any self defense handgun application, serious and regular training on how to use, operate and shoot your carry gun, or guns, must be a part of your commitment to carry. This goes for reloading any gun you carry, not just Bond Arms pistols.

I can't speak to the reloading procedure since I don't have a Bond Arms to put through those paces, but I'll manage to work that out sometime and report back on it. From what I have seen, the procedure is quick and relatively easy, but again, as with all things of this nature, it requires commitment and practice.

Bond Arms makes an intriguing, rock-sold, small handgun that fires some awesome rounds and I think it deserves a serious look as a self-defense carry gun.

More later...